Creams with acids

According to vague memories of a school chemistry course, acid is something caustic and destructive. But in the beauty industry, there are substances with much more gentle properties. Details are in our article.

What acids are used in cosmetics and why

Let’s go back to school for a moment in chemistry class to remember: an acid is a substance in which hydrogen atoms are connected to a group of elements, usually including oxygen. Acids are very different and not necessarily acidic. By the way, our DNA is also acid.

In cosmetics, acids have found the widest application. And most importantly, scientists use substances in beauty products that are identical to those that are naturally present in the skin and the body as a whole.

Hyaluronic

A true hydration genius and the main keeper of moisture in our skin (as well as joints). Molecules of hyaluronic acid attract water, turn it into a gel and retain it, releasing it as needed so that the skin does not feel thirsty.

Amino acids are the basis of any proteins.

Fruity (alpha-hydroxy-, AHA)

These include acids that are commonly included in peels:

  • glycolic;

  • apple;

  • wine;

  • dairy;

  • almond;

  • lemon.

These substances are indeed acidic and relatively caustic. They destroy the bonds between keratinized cells and contribute to their separation from the epidermis.

Since AHAs also remove superficial pigmentation by exfoliating, they are often used in bleaching products, as well as:

  • in formulas for problematic and aging skin, which is characterized by hyperkeratosis;

  • in cleansers and exfoliators;

  • in serums and concentrates from hyperpigmentation.

Salicylic (beta-hydroxy-, BHA)

A proven ingredient in products for oily and problematic acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid, like fruit, has an exfoliating effect, which is also combined with an anti-inflammatory effect (it is no coincidence that this substance is the basis of aspirin).

Fruit acids provide an exfoliating effect.

Salicylic acid also affects the production of sebum, visually narrowing the pores. It is quite widespread in nature and is found, for example, in chamomile extract.

Lipohydroxy acid (LHA) is also responsible for superficial peeling, which acts even softer due to its lipophilic nature, but no less effective.

jasmonic

This natural component is very popular in modern cosmetics. Jasmonic acid, produced by plants, controls their growth, repairs damage. It slows down the germination of seeds, inhibits the process of wilting and falling leaves.

Not surprisingly, jasmonic acid has a place in anti-aging cosmetics.

Amino acids

They are the basis of any proteins, and life in the biological sense is nothing more than the interaction of proteins. The human body is built from them. For example, collagen is a combination of certain amino acids. Amino acids are used as cosmetic ingredients:

  • lysine;

  • tyrosine;

  • methionine;

  • arginine.

All of them stimulate skin regeneration, are part of intensively moisturizing and anti-aging products.

Fatty

These are simply fats, lipids – their softness has become the main secret of the success of cosmetic oils and nutrition products. For example, the mega-popular omega-3, -6, -9 are fatty acids that are found in many vegetable oils widely used in the beauty industry.

Elena Eliseeva, Vichy expert, explains: “Fatty acids are a necessary building material of cell membranes and intercellular substance. For external use, creams are recommended, and for the diet, products with Omega-3, -6 and -9.

Vitamins

Ascorbic, lipoic, nicotinic – part of these “vitamin acids” has an antioxidant effect. Lipoic acid also interferes with the process of glycation – the bonding of collagen fibers. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) stimulates its production.

Hyaluronic acid molecules provide water storage.

Back to the table of contents

Safety measures

The vast majority of the above acids are very mild and gentle on the skin. Perhaps only two types require special attention.

AHA acids

Peeling itself involves a relatively aggressive effect on the skin. That is why exfoliating and whitening concentrates and serums with acids must be tested, for example, on the wrist before use.

BHA acids

Salicylic acid, seemingly indispensable for oily skin, can dry it out. It is important to choose a product that combines this important ingredient with softening and moisturizing ingredients.

Back to the table of contents

Overview of creams with acids

hyaluronic acid

Night anti-aging care Revitalift Filler (ha), L’Oréal Paris

The highlight of the cream is highly concentrated hyaluronic acid. The product is called “volume restorer” for a reason: wrinkles are filled, the skin is smoothed, filled with moisture, it becomes noticeably younger and more elastic.

Moisture Genius Facial Fluid, L’Oréal Paris

A new product with a light texture – an alternative to the usual moisturizer. The main component is hyaluronic acid. The fluid is used as a basic care product twice a day, retains moisture for up to 72 hours.

Night SPA-care Aqualia Thermal, Vichy

The carefully crafted moisturizing formula is based on mineral-rich thermal water, and hyaluronic acid is the main ingredient. The patented aquabioryl molecule helps maintain the effect for 48 hours.

Lipohydroxy acids

Skin Corrector, Micro-Blur Skin Perfector, Kiehl’s

In addition to lipohydroxy acid, the cream also contains salicylic acid, which determines the corrective effect, that is, the elimination of imperfections in problem skin.

Correcting cream-gel for problem skin Effaclar Duo (+), La Roche-Posay

Active ingredients: LHA, salicylic acid – help reduce imperfections, prevent the appearance of acne elements. To improve the quality of sebum, linoleic acid, vitamin F, was introduced into the composition.

Jasmonic acid

Multi-corrective face cream Super Multi-Corrective Cream, Kiehl’s

In combination with sodium hyaluronate, jasmonic acid provides an anti-aging effect. The number of fine wrinkles is reduced, the skin becomes more elastic and looks toned.

Multiactive face cream Visionnaire Crème, Lancôme

The special signaling molecule LR 2412 is based on jasmonic acid. Its renewal energy is harmoniously combined with the action of hyaluronic acid, which provides a noticeable rejuvenating effect.

Fatty acid

Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2, SkinCeuticals

It contains three main types of lipids: ceramides, cholesterol, omega-3 and -6 fatty acids. The cream reduces the visible signs of aging, makes the skin more elastic, supports self-healing processes.

Face cream “Luxury food. The lightness of silk, L’Oréal Paris

The formula is enriched with oils of flowers and fruits, that is, fatty acids, therefore it gives an excellent nutritional effect, restores natural lipid protection.

Back to the table of contents

Leave a Reply