Comedogenicity of oils

You have probably heard about the benefits of cosmetic oils. And, perhaps, they even managed to try some, but instead of beautiful, healthy, radiant skin, they got clogged pores, acne and inflammation … We tell you what comedogenicity and comedogenic oils are – and why our skin dislikes the latter so much.

What is comedogenicity

This term comes from the word “comedone”. Well, what are comedones, probably everyone knows: nasty black dots that spoil the skin so much – and the mood. Most often, teenagers suffer from them. “But comedones can appear after 25 years, and after 35, and even after 50 – it all depends on the state of the body and on whether we properly care for the skin, whether we use suitable cosmetics,” notes medical expert Vichy, cosmetologist-dermatologist Altana Bazyleva. Some cosmetic ingredients may be comedogenic, including certain oils. And if dry skin may accept them with joy, then on oily skin they will behave badly – clog pores, cause inflammation. To avoid unpleasant surprises, it is very important to choose cosmetics according to your skin type, you can also seek advice from a cosmetologist or dermatologist.

If your facial skin is problematic, take our test and check yourself – are you taking care of it properly?

How is the Comedogenic Index rated?

For this, there is a special scale from 0 to 5. Important! The comedogenic index refers to natural oils or individual ingredients in their pure form. As part of cosmetics, due to the combination with other components and modern processing technologies, possible risks are reduced or completely reduced to zero – American scientists even conducted special studies.

So, the comedogenicity scale of natural oils is from 0 to 5:

  • 0 means that the oil does not clog pores and can be used for any type of skin (such oils include shea butter, mineral, hemp and argan butter);

  • 1 indicates a minimal likelihood that the pores will become clogged (mango, rosehip, ylang-ylang oil);

  • 2 – the probability that the oil will provoke “black spots” is low (almond oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado, evening primrose, grape seed, hazelnut, jojoba);

  • 3 – indicator of moderate comedogenicity (soybean oil);

  • 4 put enough comedogenic oils (coconut, cocoa butter);

  • 5 – oils that are more likely to provoke the appearance of black spots and inflammation (wheat germ oil, etc.).

The likelihood that apricot kernel oil will provoke blackheads is minimal.

Girls with oily and combination skin types will probably now think: “Maybe it’s better to avoid oils altogether then?” “In no case! – exclaims Altana Bazylev. – Deficiency of good fatty acids (linoleic and linolenic) results in a decrease in the protective functions of the skin. Unfortunately, it is linoleic acid that the body does not produce itself, it comes only with food, omega-3 and -6 supplements, and cosmetics. You can’t refuse the latter – you just need to choose oils with a low level of comedogenicity, for example, rose hips and grape seeds.

And the owners of dry and normal skin, according to the expert, can experiment with all types of oils, except for those whose comedogenic index is 5. True, “four-star” oils (for example, coconut oil) are best used for hair and skin of the body, not for the face.

Useful properties of various oils

All oils are needed, they are all important! We list only some of their useful properties.

  • Shea butter (shea butter) perfectly moisturizes the skin, eliminates dryness and flaking, strengthens the protective properties of the skin, for example, as part of lip balms, it prevents chapping, cracking from the sun and wind.

  • Arganovoye – perhaps the most expensive oil in the world. Prolongs the youthfulness of the skin, promotes its restoration, eliminates fine wrinkles.

  • Rosehip oil It moisturizes well, has an anti-inflammatory effect, brightens the skin, fights hyperpigmentation and wrinkles.

  • Castor – lightens age spots and freckles, restores, makes the skin softer and more elastic.

  • Black cumin oil, Cleopatra’s favorite oil, fights the aging process, strengthens the skin, prevents loss of elasticity.

  • Hemp – softens and nourishes even very rough skin (for example, on the elbows and heels).

  • Sea buckthorn – fights wrinkles, rashes, imperfections. Increases turgor and protective functions of the skin.

  • Mango butter removes peeling, restores, soothes and intensively moisturizes the skin.

  • Sunflower – protects against the effects of harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation, prevents withering and aging of the skin, stimulates renewal processes.

  • Sesame – improves cell nutrition, activates collagen production, acts as an antioxidant.

  • Almond – has a pronounced rejuvenating effect, improves complexion.

  • Jojoba – protects the skin from aggressive environmental factors, has an anti-inflammatory effect.

  • Avocado oil actively nourishes and moisturizes the skin, soothes.

  • Grape seed oil brightens dark circles under the eyes, fights wrinkles, tightens the contour of the face.

  • Macadamia oil keeps the skin young and fresh, relieves peeling, corrects the relief.

  • Peach – suitable even for sensitive skin, fights dryness, dullness, soothes the skin.

  • Olive — restores and softens the skin, promotes the production of collagen, protects against free radicals.

  • Soybean — copes with dryness, dehydration of the skin, fights against loss of tone and wilting.

  • Apricot — soothes, restores the skin, protects it from wind and temperature extremes.

  • hazelnut oil strengthens the skin, makes it more dense and elastic.

  • Coconut – perfectly softens, moisturizes, makes the skin more elastic.

  • cocoa butter softens, moisturizes, restores, makes the skin smooth and supple.

  • Linseed oil nourishes the skin and slows down the aging process. Evens complexion, fights wrinkles.

  • Wheat germ oil fights dryness and aging of the skin, activates the renewal processes.

  • Palm – reduces pigmentation and enhances regenerative processes, makes the skin soft and moisturized.

Coconut oil is great for softening the skin. © Getty Inages

How to choose oil according to skin type

And now we pass to the most interesting. Which oils (and products with them) are right for you?

For normal skin

Cosmetic oils can restore the balance of moisture in the skin, strengthen its protective barrier. And even for normal (in fact, ideal) skin, they will not be superfluous.

Sheet mask “Moisturizing + anti-stress” with lavender essential oil, Garnier

It’s like a spa at home. The mask instantly moisturizes and gives a feeling of comfort. It removes signs of fatigue, fights dull skin. And what a smell she has! One mask gives you the same boost of moisture as a week of care with moisturizing glycerin serum.

Face oil “Luxury food. Extraordinary Oil, L’Oréal Paris

It contains as many as 8 essential oils complementing each other. Lavender, rosemary, geranium, orange, rose, marjoram, lavandin, chamomile soothe and nourish the skin, providing an antioxidant effect.

Light cream for normal to oily skin with signs of aging Face Cream, SkinCeuticals

Contains grape seed, sunflower seed & sesame oils. The cream gives the skin a youthful look and beauty, fights wrinkles.

For dry skin

Dry skin and oils are literally made for each other: they intensively nourish it, moisturize and smooth it, saturate it with vitamins and microelements. Dry skin does not produce enough sebum, and cosmetics with oils are designed to eliminate this deficiency.

Transforming face cream-oil “Luxury nutrition. Extraordinary Oil, L’Oréal Paris

Enriched with essential oils of lavender, rosemary and white jasmine extract, the cream nourishes the skin, making it more vibrant, soft and supple. Erases signs of fatigue and dullness.

Cream-care to protect dry skin Nutrilogie 1, Vichy

Cream with sphingolipids, jojoba and apricot oils eliminates the feeling of tightness, softens the skin, gives it elasticity and strengthens it.

Cream for sensitive skin prone to redness, Rosaliac UV, La Roche-Posay

In addition to soothing niacinamide, it contains shea butter. The cream intensively moisturizes, soothes and softens the skin.

For oily skin

Its owners need to avoid comedogenic oils – and not be afraid of all the others. After all, vegetable oils smooth the skin, fight free radicals, moisturize, strengthen the protective function of the epidermis – and in this sense it is absolutely necessary for it. The main thing is to pay attention to the “non-comedogenic” mark on the packaging.

Foaming make-up remover Biosource Total Renew Oil, Biotherm

Oil with oils of passion fruit, apricot and rice bran literally dissolves makeup and impurities, washes off sebum.

Absolue Precious Cells Revitalizing Night Mask, Lancôme

In addition to rose concentrate, it contains natural shea butter and corn germ. Thoroughly moisturizes, softens and tones the skin, promotes its renewal. In the morning, she looks rested and rejuvenated.

For combination skin

Oils in products for such skin are an absolute must. They, as a rule, perform two functions at once – they either cleanse without irritating, or moisturize and soften without causing a feeling of oiliness and stickiness.

Micellar water with oils, Garnier

Namely, argan oil. This is an excellent cleanser for all skin types, including combination. It removes impurities, but does not leave a greasy film after use.

Illuminating Exfoliating Sugar Scrub L’Oréal Paris

Contains grape and monoy oils, gently cleanses the skin and at the same time cares for it – makes it smooth, radiant and softens. The skin becomes transformed, and its tone and texture are evened out.

Midnight Recovery Concentrate, Kiehl’s

Easily and quickly absorbed. It contains extracts of evening primrose oil, rosehip, rosemary and rose. It soothes the skin, creates ideal conditions for a night’s rest, moisturizes and softens.

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