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Georgian cognacs are a peculiar phenomenon, since real cognac can only be French. Then we will talk about grape brandies, which are sometimes confused with another national Georgian spirit – chacha. Both drinks are made from the same raw material – grapes, but using completely different technologies. The difference between cognac and chacha is that cognac is obtained from fermented grape juice by double distillation in copper moonshine stills of a special design (alambicas) followed by aging in oak barrels, and chacha is made from grape pomace remaining after separation of the juice, often distilled only one once in any distiller and not left in barrels. This means that both cognac and chacha can be made from one batch of grapes.
Historical reference. Grapes have long been cultivated in Georgia, the country is known for its ancient traditions of winemaking and the high quality of alcoholic beverages. The first local industrialist who established cognac production was Georgy Bolkvadze. First, but not the best. His products were released in 1865, but never entered the international market, as they could not compete with French counterparts in quality.
The further history of the development of brandy in Georgia is inextricably linked with David Sarajishvili. In 1884, he founded a winery in Tbilisi, which produced the first portion of cognac three years later. The manufacturer clearly followed the French technology, and also personally worked to improve the quality of the product, selected areas for vineyards, taking into account the combination of soil and local climate.
The young oenologist Sarajishvili successfully developed his business, and soon brandy factories appeared not only in the capital of Georgia, but also in other cities of the Russian Empire. In 1909, the production process of grape brandy was systematized and codified, a special “Cognac Law” determined the grape varieties from which the drink was to be made, clearly prescribed all the rules.
During the meeting of the “Big Three” in Yalta in 1945, the products of the Tbilisi Brandy Factory (the assignee of Sarajishvili’s company after his death) were appreciated by Stalin and Roosevelt, and the connoisseur and connoisseur of alcoholic beverages Churchill did not even recognize the Georgian “fake” at first, mistaking it for pure French cognac. A historical anecdote says that 4 years later Churchill celebrated his 75th birthday and received 75 bottles of excellent Georgian cognac as a gift from Stalin. It is said that the British Prime Minister exclaimed: “It is a pity that I am not a hundred!”.
Production in Tbilisi has been operating for over 130 years. During this time, the company changed names and owners, but remained true to the traditions laid down by the founder David Sarajishvili. Today the plant is called JSC “David Sarajishvili and Eniseli” and is the oldest Georgian producer of grape brandy. This is the only plant that stores spirits obtained back in 1893.
Cognacs from Sarajishvili’s house occupy about 80% of the Georgian market and are divided into three types:
- Classic. They are made according to French technology and correspond to the characteristics of a real brandy from the Cognac region.
- Unique. Variations on the theme of grape distillate with original bouquets.
- Vintage – blends of different spirits of the same year of harvest.
Technology of preparation of Georgian cognacs
Picked grapes of the varieties Tsitska, Pino, Rkatsiteli and others are crushed with a press and fermented into wine, then the drink is subjected to double distillation in Charente-type alambika. Finished spirits are aged in oak barrels for three years. Finally, the future cognac is blended (alcohol of different aging is mixed), and there is no single recipe – a special person is responsible for the taste and quality of the drink, who single-handedly selects the combination of alcohols. Then the components should “marry” – that is, mix evenly. To do this, they are again sent for aging in barrels, this time for a period of 4 months to a year. And only then the finished cognac is bottled.
Charente alambic is a copper distillation still with an additional intermediate vessel. Traditionally, French cognac is made only in it.
Peculiarities of taste
A distinctive feature of Georgian cognac is a soft “vanilla” taste, which only becomes brighter with time. These tones appear when aging for more than four years, and the oak variety from which the barrel is made also affects the aroma of the drink. The older the drink, the more complex its bouquet and the more nuances it has.
In Georgia, grape brandy is drunk from cognac glasses (sniffers) in 50 ml portions and eaten with spicy meat dishes typical of local cuisine.
Classification and types of Georgian cognacs
When determining the quality of Georgian cognacs, both European and Soviet classifications can be used, depending on the manufacturer.
European
- Very Special (VS) – exposure up to three years (but not less than two).
- Superior – 3-4 years.
- Very Superior Old Pale (V.S.O.P.) – 4-5 лет.
- Very Very Superior Old Pale (V.V.S.O.P.) – 5-6 лет.
- Extra Old (XO) – 6 years or more.
Soviet
Ordinary (age is marked by the number of stars).
Vintage:
- KV (Cognac Aged) – 6-8 years.
- KVVK (Aged Top Quality) – 8-10 years.
- KS (Old) – 10-12 years.
- OS (Very Old) – 12-23 years old.
Collectible. Excerpt from 23 years old.
Different manufacturers can produce the same types of cognacs:
- “Anniversary”. It is blended from 25-year-old spirits.
- “Eniseli”. Business card of Georgian cognacs. It is made on the basis of 15-year-old cognac spirits, Rkatsiteli grapes are used as raw materials. Distinguished by a rich “confectionery” bouquet, winner of many awards at international competitions.
- “Tbilisi”. Similar to the previous variety, but alcohols are aged even longer – up to 20 years.
Names of Georgian cognacs
Popular brands:
- “Sarajishvili” is a recognized market leader, the former “Tbilisi Cognac Factory”, produces both ordinary, and vintage, and collection brands.
- “Tiflisi Marani”. The most expensive product is Tbilisi cognac, aged for 17 years.
- K.T.W. Famous for three series of cognacs, the age of drinks varies from 3 to 17 years.
- “Dugladze”. It supplies the market with both elite aged products and young affordable cognacs.
- “Askaneli Brothers”. It is famous for the collection cognac Askaneli Extra XO with 50 years of aging.
- Akhalsheni 2005. It produces not only cognacs, but also wines. Grape brandy aging is 3-14 years.