Climbing roses: cultivation and proper care

Description

Climbing roses are a variety of garden roses, which are characterized by curly or creeping lashes several meters long. It is this feature of the growth of shoots that allows the use of plants in vertical gardening, for the design of small architectural forms: arbors, arches and other decorative structures. This type of roses does not have a definite classification, but according to the nature of the growth of the shoots, they are divided into three groups:

• climbing (shoot length 3-5 m) – these roses are not prone to branching, they cling to the support on their own, but for proper growth they need to be guided, the shoots are powerful, covered with thorns, the leaves are hard, waxy, the flowers can have the most diverse size and appearance description: from small to rather large;
• semi-climbing (shoots 1,5-3 m) – ideal for hedges, can be in the form of a compact shrub, or located on a stem;
• curly roses (length of lashes 5-15 m). This group is characterized by the continuous formation of new shoots, due to which the bush quickly increases its green mass, and flowering stretches for a period of 1 to 3 months.

Curly roses are particularly decorative, because in a short time they are able to braid a significant area. Among this group there are many remontant varieties that bloom several times a season.

All climbing roses begin to bloom in June, and finish at different times: semi-climbing varieties bloom on average 30 days, and curly roses – continuously from early June until autumn.

According to the nature of flowering, roses can be divided into large-flowered (single buds) and multi-flowered (inflorescences). Large-flowered are characterized by a single bud opening and a long flowering period. Outwardly and in size, they resemble tea roses, they also smell pleasant. Many-flowered are distinguished by their small size (2-3 cm in diameter), a large number of buds (5-20 pieces) collected in inflorescences, a weakly pronounced, almost imperceptible aroma.

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Landing

Climbing roses are planted mainly in spring, but in the southern regions, as well as in the middle lane, it is also possible in the autumn, 1-1,5 months before the onset of frost. If the autumn is warm, then this time is enough for the plants to adapt and take root. The advantage of autumn planting is that immediately with the arrival of spring, the young bush will begin to grow actively along with the old bushes and, perhaps, will even please the first flowering in June.

Climbing rose prefers sunny, slightly windy and non-wetlands. It is advisable to plant a bush on a slight elevation, this will help to avoid stagnation of water in the soil, which is harmful to roses. Since the roots of an adult plant reach a depth of 2 m, the planting site should be chosen with a groundwater level below this mark. Bushes are recommended to be planted at a sufficient (1,5-2 m) distance from each other, since the lashes are able to curl in different directions and grow rapidly.

The optimal size of a planting hole for a rose of 50×50 cm is the depth and diameter, but it all depends on the variety. If the bush can grow voluminous, then the size should be increased to 60 cm. The ideal soil for a rose is loose loam with a layer of humus or other organic material. If the soil is not fertile enough, it is necessary to add peat, humus, phosphorus mixture to it. The site for planting is prepared in advance, and immediately before planting, the soil is dug up.

If the seedling was bought in a nursery, then it should be put in water for a couple of hours so that the roots straighten. Next, the bush is placed vertically in the planting hole, so that the root neck, after falling asleep with earth, is deepened by about 10 cm. After planting, the bush is watered, and the soil is covered with mulch (sawdust, chips, stone chips). If the plants are planted in autumn, mulch should be organic: humus, peat.

Cultivation

Climbing roses require a lot of attention, as well as certain knowledge in this area. Proper planting and care is important for them, on which the beauty and splendor of flowering bush depends. First of all, plants need to establish supports along which they will trail. While the seedlings are young, they need to be watered regularly and loosen the soil around if there is no mulch. Mature plants especially need watering in extreme heat, however, periodic watering and sprinkling of the bush in the evening will have the most favorable effect on flowering.

Caring for climbing roses also includes top dressing. During the beginning of the growing season and before wintering, mineral fertilizers are applied under the bush, special mixtures with humate for roses.

In summer, bushes can be watered with an organic solution or compost can be dug into the trunk circle. To prevent the plants from being affected by fungal diseases, they are treated with insecticides twice a season: Bordeaux liquid, copper sulphate. The same means are effective against pests of roses such as spider mites, aphids.

Roses are heat-loving plants, they can freeze already at a temperature of -10 ° C, so in the middle lane they should be covered for the winter. To do this, in late autumn, when the night temperature drops to -3-5 ° C, the lashes are removed from the supports, twisted, laid on the ground and sprinkled with a thick layer of organic mulch. In severe winter, a denser material (roofing material, agrofibre) can be placed on top of the shelter.

Trimming

The formation of a bush is a very important event for weaving varieties of roses, which makes it possible to achieve longer and more abundant flowering. In summer, climbing roses, which are cared for at a high level, grow an average of 3-4 m, which leads to excessive thickening of the bush, so regular pruning also rejuvenates the plant and keeps it healthy.

Roses are pruned in spring and autumn. In the spring, diseased and frozen shoots are completely cut off, as well as the tops of the branches formed last year. During the entire flowering period, faded buds are removed from the bush. This procedure not only improves the aesthetic appearance of the plant, but also has a sanitary purpose, because pests or pathogens can settle in dried or rotten buds.

During autumn pruning, all damaged, as well as unripened (weak, too thin) shoots of the current year are also removed, after which the lashes can be removed from the supports and covered for the winter. It is better to form bushes of climbing roses horizontally. This method promotes abundant flowering, while with the vertical formation of branches, buds form only at the very top of the bush.

Reproduction

Climbing roses can be propagated in several ways:

• dividing the bush: the method is acceptable for semi-climbing roses, since it is very difficult to dig and divide a climbing rose bush located on a support;
• cuttings: both summer (green) and stiff shoots are used;
• layering.

Let’s take a closer look at the last two methods. Cuttings are the easiest and fastest way, besides, green cuttings give an almost one hundred percent guarantee of successful rooting. The blanks should be cut in June, during the flowering of the rose. The lower cut is made at an angle of 45 ° from the bottom of the kidney, the upper one is at a right angle just above the kidney, the leaves are removed from the cutting. Billets 15-20 cm long with 3-4 internodes are planted in a moist substrate (a mixture of earth and sand in equal proportions) and covered with jars (half a plastic bottle can be used). With regular watering, rooting of cuttings occurs in a month.

Curly roses are more convenient to propagate by root layers. To do this, separate the young lash growing at the root collar, dig a small groove under it (width and depth of 10-15 cm), lay a thin layer of humus on the bottom, mix it with the soil, then lower the shoot into the recess, strengthen it in several places and sprinkle with earth. Before digging the whip, small incisions should be made in places under the kidneys to speed up the germination of the roots. By the fall, the shoot will take root, but it will be possible to transplant it only in the spring, and for the winter the future rose must be covered with peat or humus so that the young roots do not freeze in winter.

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