Chemical peeling

In the arsenal of modern cosmetology, chemical peeling occupies a prominent place. Its popularity is due to the great variety of options and high efficiency. Who needs this procedure and why?

What is a chemical peel?

In any textbook on cosmetology, you can find the definition of the concept of “chemical peeling” – this is the application of a chemical agent in order to cause damage to the skin under the control of a cosmetologist. In modern cosmetology, hydroxy acids, trichloroacetic acid (TCA), phenol (less and less often), and proteolytic enzymes are used as active agents.

The era of chemical peel research began with the work of the German dermatologist Paul Gerson Unna. In 1882, he published the technique and results of the use of the above exfoliating agents – German dermatologists already in the XNUMXth century used chemical peeling to eliminate acne scars and whiten the skin. Today, chemical facial peels are one of the most extensively researched procedures to address a wide range of aesthetic concerns, including:

  • increased oiliness of the skin;

  • acne and post-acne;

  • гиперпигментация;

  • hyperkeratosis;

  • prevention and correction of age-related changes.

The essence of chemical peeling of the face is that active ingredients act on the skin during the procedure. It all depends on the chemical nature of the peeling agent, its concentration, the pH of the applied preparation, the exposure time on the skin and the initial state of the skin itself.

The safest peeling works within the stratum corneum, due to which the surface of the skin is leveled, but living cells are not affected or damaged.

The following peels are distinguished by the depth of exposure:

  • exfoliation – removal of dead skin particles;

  • surface peeling – exposure at the level of the stratum corneum of the skin;

  • light median peeling – damage to the granular layer of the epidermis;

  • deep median peeling – the applied agent acts to the level of the basal layer of the skin;

  • deep peeling of the face – damage to the skin, leading to the removal of the epidermis.

The post-peeling period is different depending on the aggressiveness of the procedure: after a light superficial peeling, there is a slight redness that does not cause any discomfort, and in more complex cases, active peeling appears, which requires some time for rehabilitation at home. What kind of peeling is suitable in a particular case, the beautician decides.

The result of a chemical peel for the face

If you are in doubt whether you need this procedure or not, let’s see what chemical peeling gives and what results can be achieved by doing the procedure in the salon. The effect after peeling, even the lightest superficial one, is immediately obvious:
  • the relief of the skin is leveled;

  • pigmentation becomes less noticeable;

  • mimic wrinkles are smoothed;

  • the skin receives a powerful impulse to renew;

  • if there are scars, the peeling course makes them less noticeable;

  • complexion improves;

  • pores become narrower and less visible.

Types of chemical peels

What is a chemical peel for? Any cosmetologist will answer – to improve the quality of the skin. The question is which method to choose for this. All peels are different.

By type of impact:

  • mechanical;

  • physical;

  • chemical (the article is devoted to it).

By duration:

  • applied once;

  • applied to the course.

The specialist selects peeling based on the indications, contraindications and wishes of the patient. Let’s see how different types of chemical peels affect the skin.

Surface

Its purpose is quite simple – to help the skin renew itself. Thanks to him, it happens:

  • exfoliation of dead cells;

  • smoothing wrinkles;

  • reduction in pigmentation.

To solve these problems, acids are used:
  • dairy;

  • almond;

  • glycolic;

  • pyruvic;

  • ascorbic;

  • ferulic;

  • phytic;

  • retinoic.

Median

Acts on the deeper layers of the epidermis. The active ingredients are:

  • trichloroacetic acid TCA;

  • azelaic and salicylic acids in high concentration;

  • large doses of retinol.

What to expect after such peeling immediately after the procedure? Sometimes it causes discomfort, and peeling of the skin can last about a week. But when all the crusts go away and the skin is renewed, you will notice a change for the better. Usually such a peeling is chosen when the skin has become dull, rough, mimic wrinkles are disturbing, turgor has noticeably decreased.

Deep

A deep chemical facial peel is the most aggressive and harsh of all exfoliating procedures, as the entire epidermis is damaged and removed, which, of course, represents a huge risk. For deep peeling, phenol is used, a chemical agent that doctors are ambivalent about. On the one hand, such a chemical peeling for the face gives an amazing rejuvenating result, and on the other hand, it provokes complications. Today, for facial rejuvenation, you can choose less toxic alternatives among hardware techniques. Deep peeling is a medical procedure and is performed strictly for medical reasons.

Indications for chemical peeling of the skin of the face

What is a chemical skin peel? One way to head for regeneration. And indications for chemical peeling are skin imperfections. For example:

  • dullness;

  • wrinkles of varying severity;

  • acne;

  • expanded pores;

  • acne and post-acne;

  • sagging and loss of turgor;

  • loss of elasticity;

  • pigmentation.

How is a chemical peel procedure performed?

What to Expect During a Chemical Facial Peel Treatment?

  1. First, the cosmetologist carries out the make-up removal stage: removes the remnants of cosmetics, cleanses the skin, and tones.

  2. A peeling agent is applied to the cleansed skin with a brush and left until a slight tingling or burning sensation is felt.

  3. Peeling is removed from the skin.

  4. A neutralizing, cooling or moisturizing mask is applied.

  5. The skin is wiped with tonic.

  6. On cleansed and moisturized skin, a moisturizer and cream with a high SPF are applied in stages.

How to take care of your skin after a chemical peel?

After any peeling, the skin needs care in the form of a soothing mask, as well as a cream with SPF.

To the question of how to care for the skin after a chemical peel, we asked Elena Lipets, dermatovenereologist, cosmetologist, trichologist, SkinCeuticals brand expert.

The general tactics of behavior after all peeling procedures is aimed at restoring the protective and water-retaining properties of the skin, which are violated to varying degrees depending on the type and intensity of exposure. It is necessary to take a set of measures to enhance the effectiveness of the procedure, and, importantly, to prevent possible adverse events.

To prevent the reproduction of pathogenic microflora:

  • do not touch the skin with unwashed hands;

  • bed linen should be changed frequently;

  • it is necessary to treat the skin with non-alcoholic antiseptics (an aqueous solution of chlorhexidine, miramistin);

  • it is recommended to limit the use of decorative cosmetics (and reusable sponges and brushes must be thoroughly disinfected).

To prevent the build-up and/or prolongation of the period of dryness, flaking, skin discomfort:

it is necessary to use lipid-replenishing creams, as well as products that have a pronounced moisturizing, softening and soothing effect. They usually include hyaluronic acid, panthenol, plant extracts, trace elements. Moisturizing gel can be distinguished among products with a similar composition. Phyto Corrective Gel SkinCeuticals.

This gel is suitable for all skin types, has revitalizing and antiseptic properties, and is also suitable for further long-term use as a moisturizer.

To prevent post-traumatic hyperpigmentation:

immediately after the procedure and in the post-procedural period, it is recommended to use sunscreens, either alone or in combination with antioxidants.

Highly effective antioxidant serum Serum 10, SkinCeuticals

The combination of a product with SPF (for example, Ultra Facial SPF50 Defense sunscreen) and an antioxidant (Serum 10 SkinCeuticals serum) will not only protect the skin from pigmentation, but also enhance the effect of peeling procedures – even out skin tone, achieve a radiance effect.

Overview of home peels and products for use after peeling

Today we have at our disposal a considerable selection of peels for home use. They do not undertake to compete with salon procedures, but they can also smooth out wrinkles, reduce pigmentation and restore skin radiance.

After peeling, sedatives will help eliminate redness and peeling.

Lotion-peeling for face and neck Re-Plasty Light Peel, Helena Rubinstein

Two-phase lotion, which is suitable even for sensitive skin, renews the epidermis day after day due to glycolic and salicylic acids. Nourishing oils soften the skin and restore its comfort.

Two-phase peeling concentrate for skin transformation Absolue Precious Cells Rose Drop, Lancôme

And again, oils (argan, white limnanthes and sunflower) work in alliance with glycolic acid at a concentration of 3,5%. Native cells, essential oil and rose extract also contribute to skin rejuvenation and renewal.

Ampoules “Revitalift Laser x3”, L’Oréal Paris

The contents of the ampoules, including exfoliating glycolic acid, are applied overnight. After 7 days of constant use, the skin looks noticeably fresher, and the complexion evens out.

Phloretin CF High Performance Serum, SkinCeuticals

A powerful antioxidant, in combination with vitamin C and ferulic acid, it is excellent in combating oxidative stress that causes cellular damage.

Bio-Cellulose Soothing Mask, SkinCeuticals

Acts as an artificial protective barrier: reduces discomfort, instantly soothes the skin after invasive procedures. Ideal for use throughout the recovery period

Cicaplast B5 multi-repairing spray for children and adults, La Roche-Posay

An excellent remedy for skin restoration – it relieves irritation and redness due to panthenol, and mannose takes care of the skin microbiome.

Moisturizing Face Lotion SPF 25, CeraVe

Provides effective broad spectrum protection against UVA and UVB rays, intensively moisturizes for 24 hours, restores the skin’s protective barrier. Hyaluronic acid and MVE technology allow you to maintain a natural level of moisture throughout the day.

Summary results

What are the benefits of a chemical peel at home?

He has a lot of advantages. Judge for yourself.

  • Prepares the skin for subsequent care and helps the care ingredients to be better absorbed.

  • Smoothes wrinkles.

  • It fights pigmentation.

  • Cleans pores.

Peeling can be done daily, 1-2 times a week or once a month – it all depends on the concentration of active ingredients and the condition of the skin.

How to choose peeling for home use and use it at home?

  1. Choose peeling products that suit your skin type.

  2. When applying peeling, do not press too hard on the skin to avoid injury.

  3. Pay special attention to the chin, nose and forehead areas.

  4. After peeling, be sure to apply a moisturizer that suits your skin type. Remember to protect yourself from the sun at any time of the year.

  5. Act without fanaticism. The optimal frequency of peeling is 1-2 times a week.

What types of peeling do cosmetologists use?

According to the method and depth of exposure, chemical peeling is divided into several types.

Surface

The topmost layer of the epidermis is damaged. Immediately after the procedure, the skin looks refreshed, bright and supple.

Median

The active ingredients of such peeling are the smallest crystals of soda, sodium chloride, magnesium oxide. They affect the middle layers of the skin. The effect of such a procedure is clearly visible after a course of 5-7 sessions. But if there is irritation or inflammation on the skin, you will have to wait until it is completely restored.

Deep

This type of peeling is carried out only by a specialist in the clinic, since the procedure affects the deeper layers of the skin. Requires quite a long rehabilitation.

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