Can cosmetics affect the skin microbiome. Interview with an expert

A new word in cosmetics is the use of probiotics and prebiotics, which have a beneficial effect on the skin microbiome. What does it have to do with her beauty and how to harmonize this small universe, says Lancôme expert Valeria Khokhlova.

Today, microbiome science is said to be revolutionizing skincare. What is meant by this? What is the revolution?

Once upon a time, the idea that the stratum corneum is not a “wall of dead cells”, but our natural defense, became revolutionary. So now, thanks to many years of research, it has become clear that the microbiome plays a key role in the barrier function of the skin, in fact, this is its first step in protection. Bacteria on the surface of the skin do not just exist, but benefit and serve the health of the skin! Many people have heard about the intestinal microbiota and how important it is to protect it, but not yet about the skin microbiome. And Lancôme is among the pioneers in bringing this idea to life. The new Advanced Génifique youth activator formula opens a new chapter in the world of effective skin care products.

In early October, Lancôme presented the latest in microbiome science at the first online Skincare E-Symposium. To help users better understand the processes that take place in the skin, Lancôme has invited the world’s leading experts in the field of the skin microbiome to discuss. They talked about how the science of the microbiome helps the skin stay healthy and protected.

How do the stages of the usual beauty routine correlate with the modern understanding of the skin microbiome: cleansing, moisturizing, nourishing, protecting? How does all this affect the microbiome?

The microbiome is negatively affected by many factors: stress, UV radiation, smoking, pollution, consumption of fast carbohydrates, age, and…aggressive cleansing. Classical care rituals: gentle cleansing, moisturizing and protecting the skin from the sun are correct and appropriate.

What about peels and scrubs?

This is a special case. It is necessary to speak in detail about the abrasiveness or the percentage of acids. There are studies on the effect of glycolic acid on the microbiome, but we are talking about high concentrations of the component. At home, this is not practiced.

Is there a link between the skin microbiome and skin aging? If so, is it possible to influence this process through the impact on the microbiome?

With age and under the influence of a number of other factors, the balance of the microbiome is disturbed, which affects the decrease in the ability of the skin to recover.

Maintaining a balanced microbiome is essential to keep the skin youthful and healthy and to enhance its natural defenses.

How, in principle, cosmetics can affect the skin microbiome?

Years of testing, scientific development, clinical research have led to the creation in Lancôme of a unique activator with proven effectiveness – Génifique. It contains a complex of seven pre- and probiotic fractions carefully selected from hundreds of other options. Bacteria fractions are obtained as a result of complex processes of selection, filtration and fragmentation. The patented combination is a wide range of sugars that are combined with probiotic fractions derived from four different strains of microorganisms (Bifidobacterium longum, Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus acidophilis, and Saccharomyces cerevisae yeast). Together they constitute the ideal environment for the skin microbiome, i.e. they provide a strong protective barrier, optimal differentiation and an excellent balance of antimicrobial peptides. The combination of fractions and the high-tech process of obtaining them play an important role and ensure efficiency. The new youth activator formula and the complex it contains are protected by two patents.

Is it possible to maintain a healthy balance of the skin microbiome from the inside and how – through nutrition with probiotics, for example?

A diet high in sugars and other commonly known unhealthy foods negatively affects the gut microbiota and the balance of the skin microbiome. Therefore, it is better to minimize such products in the diet. As for eating with probiotics, this is a healthy habit – fermented foods should be in the diet of a modern person. It is also important to ensure their high-quality assimilation, and this is already a separate global topic, so beloved by nutritionists.

How are probiotics and prebiotics for cosmetics produced? How environmentally friendly and safe is it?

As I said, this is a complex biotechnological process. The required strains are inactivated by ultrasound, subjected to thorough purification and fragmentation. As a result, fractions of bacteria are obtained, because the presence of live bacteria would be contrary to the high quality standards of a cosmetic product. Because the bacteria are not live, the serum can be stored at room temperature and used within 12 months of opening the vial.

Are there any risks when using cosmetics with probiotics? Are there any restrictions?

Cosmetics with probiotics are recommended for any age, type and skin condition. Moreover, the connection between the imbalance of microflora and the development of skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis, acne, psoriasis, etc. has been proven.

The microbiome of each person is unique, how then can you create a remedy that will favorably affect everyone?

The strength of the skin microbiome is in its diversity, but still there are the main representatives of the normal microflora – epidermal staphylococcus and cutibacteria, they are the objects of close study of scientists. The skin in different parts of the body differs in moisture, fat content and temperature, which also affects the diversity of microorganisms. For example, the composition of bacteria in wet and dry areas of the body differs, that is, the ratio and number of certain microorganisms differ, which makes the microbiome of each person unique.

Thanks to the research of the microbiome, the fact has become obvious: you need to be friends with microorganisms and create comfortable conditions for them. We hope that this will start a new trend – gentle skin cleansing and reasonable care.

How do probiotics and prebiotics in cosmetics interact with other active ingredients (antioxidants, acids, including hyaluronic acid, etc.)?

Probiotics and prebiotics are combined with all kinds of moisturizing and protective ingredients, allow you to comfortably use acids and retinol, and help accelerate the recovery and healing process.

Please tell us a little about the history of discoveries related to the skin microbiome and the application of this knowledge in the beauty industry.

The important role of the skin microbiome in protecting against pathogenic bacteria and reducing the inflammatory process has been proven, the balance of the microbiome guarantees accelerated skin recovery. Therefore, the use of products that positively affect the microbiome will help maintain healthy and youthful skin, despite the abundance of internal and external stress factors. Such a beauty practice will help speedy recovery after procedures such as peels, mesotherapy, etc. Therefore, Lancôme considers the topic of the microbiome very promising – the improved formula of the legendary Génifique activator aims to keep the skin in excellent condition as long as possible and help it better resist harmful factors environment.

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