Skin spots affect us all. White skin is plagued by brown lentigines, while dark or dark skin is more at risk of developing darker spots. Repeated sun exposure, aging, drugs, genetic or hormonal predisposition: if many are lost on the “why”, the editorial staff tells you “how” to get rid of it. Explanations.

Melanin is the pigment that colors our skin. It is synthesized from the amino acid of tyrosine by the action of the enzyme tyrosinase. The production of melanin accelerates during sun exposure. This is when the tan appears. However, it happens that prolonged sun exposure causes this process to run wild: the risk is hyperpigmentation.

There are different types of skin hyperpigmentation such as lentigines, brown spots from aging or the pregnancy mask, also called melasma. Certain active ingredients prevent hyperpigmentation by acting on the synthesis of melanin.

Thiamidol is an ingredient patented by Eucerin® Dermatological Laboratories. It helps reduce dark spots by working on the cause of hyperpigmentation. More precisely, Thiamidol has an action on tyrosinase which contributes to the formation of melanin. It therefore reduces the size of the spots already present and prevents the appearance of new spots by inhibiting the production of melanin. Over the course of applications, the spots fade, their diameter is reduced and the complexion is more uniform and luminous. Clinical trials show rapid efficacy, with the first visible results within 2 weeks. In addition, this rapid improvement continues after 12 weeks of application.¹. Note that Thiamidol is tolerated by pregnant women.

Dioic acid also reduces skin spots. It acts on the production of melanin. It is known to decrease the action of tyrosinase, preventing hyperpigmentation during UV exposure.

Hydroquinone is a so-called “reducing” agent which slows down the synthesis of melanin by inhibiting the formation of the enzyme tyrosinase. It also has a cytotoxic effect on the cells that produce melanin: the melanocytes. It is most often offered as a prescription cream combined with the tretinoid (a derivative of vitamin A). It is “the mostly prescribed depigmenting agent”, according to Doctor Naïma Midoun, dermatologist in Paris.

Its effectiveness has been proven. However, “it is sometimes poorly tolerated (…), readily drying out, irritating and contraindicated in pregnant women or in the event of the sun”. Doctor Naïma Midoun, therefore directs more towards dermo-cosmetic care based on less aggressive active ingredients. Other dermatologists are also concerned about the excesses of the use of this product for non-therapeutic purposes.².

The real secret to countering skin spots is adopting a routine based on products that have been proven to unify and glow the complexion. Exfoliating your skin is also an unstoppable habit.

Vitamins C and E

Vitamin C has more than one trick up its sleeve: it’s anti-aging³ by its stimulating action of collagen⁴ and protective against free radicals. This asset is increased tenfold when combined with vitamin E.

Vitamin C is also a regulator of melanin production: it therefore preserves lentigines, brown spots or even the mask of pregnancy, since it is not contraindicated in pregnant women.

Be careful, however, because vitamin C is photosensitizing. It is therefore recommended to combine it with SPF protection or to apply vitamin C-based treatments at night rather than during the day. In addition, vitamin C is also irritating, so do not hesitate to accompany it with natural anti-inflammatory active ingredients.

Polyphenols

Polyphenols are active ingredients with antioxidant properties⁵. You will find them in a large number of foods such as tea, dark chocolate, wine but also and especially fruits such as red fruits (anthocyanins), grapes (tannins) or grapefruit (flavonoids). It is recommended to consume these foods every day in order to obtain the results of a real makeover. There are also cosmetic products based on polyphenols that are effective against the signs of aging, including dark age spots.

Update on exfoliators

There are several types of exfoliation that can prevent dark spots and maintain an even complexion: peels, scrubs and treatments containing exfoliating acids. Be careful, however, these exfoliators must be used in moderation, at the risk of weakening your skin. Do not hesitate to ask your dermatologist or pharmacist for advice on how often to use them. Exfoliators promote cell regeneration by eliminating dead skin and browned keratinocytes. They allow better penetration of depigmenting active ingredients. Finally, they stimulate the production of collagen to fight against the effects of time.

Mechanical exfoliation

Peels have a fairly effective depigmenting action. However, these interventions remain particularly invasive and expose to a risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. The peels consist in desquamating the epidermis of the face to reduce the defects, the wrinkles.

Micro-dermabrasion is a superficial peel that smooths the face with:

• A microcrystals apparatus: this technique consists in projecting microcrystals which remove the surface layer of the skin, by proceeding by small surfaces;
• A fraxelized laser: this method uses a very precise laser beam that penetrates deep into the epidermis and targets old skin cells. This treatment stimulates the regeneration of skin cells, and reveals a more even complexion.

Regarding scrubs, those that contain micro-grains are by far the most effective.

Exfoliating acids

These are most often alpha hydroxy acids or AHAs. They come from fruit sugars (glycolic acid) or milk (lactic acid). Azelaic acid is recommended for acne due to its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.

The application of depigmenting agents which slow down the production of melanin is a daily gesture to fight against hyperpigmentation.