Bright as the sun!

I have an overwhelming impression that subsequent texts on sun protection are treated a bit with a pinch of salt. Because how many times can you … Because it’s all as bright as the sun … You have to protect yourself from UV radiation. You have to buy some kind of preparation (preferably bigger and cheaper), with some factor (however lower). You have to put it on like a cream (i.e. anyhow), preferably on the beach. Meanwhile – it’s all wrong. Even though it may be boring, please read again – how.

Double action of the sun

On the downside – it increases the risk of developing melanoma

The relationship between overexposure to the sun and developing melanoma is indisputable. The number of patients diagnosed with this skin cancer has doubled every ten years. Why? More often than before, we go on exotic trips, where we sunbathe without moderation. We use sunscreen creams, but at the same time extend them

the time of “painless” exposure to the sun. Because – with all the need for sun protection – filters block the feeling of skin burns, i.e. a natural warning system. So all that’s left is the emergency mode: moderation and your own common sense.

On the plus side – it improves the mood and influences the synthesis of vitamin D.

While it is difficult to argue with the first argument, the supporters of sunbathing abuse the latter and fail to tell the truth. Dermatologists agree that just 15 minutes in the sun is enough for the body to produce vitamin D in the amount it needs.

Holidays? Greece, Spain and Italy

Every second Pole likes to sunbathe, spends an average of 4,5 hours in the sun a day, preferably in Greece, Spain or Italy. Although Polish sunbathers are quite aware of the dangers of sunbathing, they do not use tanning preparations. Sunbathing ranks fourth in terms of leisure activities. Among people who sunbathe, every fifth woman and every third man do not use tanning cosmetics at all. The elderly are the least likely to use cosmetics. Women most often use photoprotective preparations in the form of lotions, creams and milks, men prefer oils and creams. Sprays are liked by women and young people. The vast majority of Poles use cosmetics with a low filter. Almost half – with an SPF index lower than 20. Only 7% of respondents use filters with an SPF index higher than 40 (source: Pole on vacation, Bioderma materials).

Solar filters protect us from UVB and UVA radiation. Protection against UVB (i.e. radiation causing erythema / tan) is determined by the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) index. On the packaging of a photoprotective cosmetic, it is most often expressed in a large number – eg SPF 20, SPF 50+. This number tells us how long we can stay in the sun after applying a specific preparation until redness occurs, compared to the time when we would be without any protection. So: a cosmetic with SPF 20 will extend the time after which the erythema will appear, from 5 minutes to 5 hours (15 minutes x 20 = 300 minutes = 5 hours), assuming that the filter will remain unchanged on the skin in the same amount and activity. . Unfortunately, in practice, the cosmetic is rubbed with towels, rinsed during bathing and sweating, and the active substances contained in it decompose over time. One should also know that the relationship between the SPF value and the amount of absorbed radiation is not directly proportional, i.e. factor 50 is not twice as effective as factor 25.

The amount of the SPF factor

This is information both about the time we can stay in the sun without the risk of burns, and the degree of protection against UVB radiation, expressed as a percentage that a given cream provides. SPF 50+ blocks 98% of UVB rays. This is the highest category of protection set by European standards. In addition to the “in extenso” information to whom the product is intended, it can be concluded that the cream will be perfect for allergy sufferers and people with sensitive skin. The recommendations of The European Cosmetics Association say that the ratio of UVA / UVB sun protection should be 1 to 3.

Waterproof cosmetics – better?

Even if a cosmetic is somehow “immune” to water, it will still lose in the face of a towel, deckchair, mat, mattress, grass, sand. In addition, 15 minutes of swimming reduces the properties of the photoprotector by half. Therefore, one should not pay too much attention to the manufacturers’ declarations that their preparation stays on the skin for 8 hours. Perhaps this is how much it retains its properties, but… in laboratory conditions, not in the beach.

Don’t be afraid of the number

Poles still use cosmetics with too small factors. Preferably – SPF 4, at most – 10. Besides, they are lubricated with them too sparingly, not being able to judge how many packages of the photoprotective preparation they should take for a week’s vacation! There is also a myth that factors 50+ are harmful to the skin. Doubts are dispelled by prof. extra dr hab. n. med. Piotr Rutkowski.

What SPF amount is recommended in creams?

SPF from 15 and up. A recent clinical study confirmed a reduction in the risk of skin melanoma with regular use of sunscreen with an SPF> 15. Of course, for people who are more prone to sunburn, 50+ filters are more appropriate. Remember, however, that the use of photoprotective creams is only one of the strategies to reduce the risk of skin cancer.

How much sunscreen should I apply to maintain adequate sun protection throughout the day?

You have to adopt the rule that when using sunscreen creams, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. In general, let’s assume that we apply a relatively thick layer of the preparation – the size of a teaspoon on the face. A lot of? This is all it takes for a filter to be effective. It is also important to apply the cream on clean and dry skin, evenly, 15-20 minutes before going out into the sun (the ingredients of the cosmetic take time to absorb and start working!), Repeat the application after each bath, heavy sweating and after rubbing off. preparation. A family with two children should use about one or two packages of sunscreen per person during a week’s vacation in warm countries.

You can hear the opinion that the use of high SPF 50+ filters harms the skin.

There are no studies proving that the use of such creams is harmful, but there are studies that the proper use of sunscreen preparations reduces the incidence of skin melanomas. Of course, there are people who are allergic to the ingredients of sunscreen, as is the case with all other cosmetics.

Does 50+ absolutely block UV rays?

Not. It must be clearly said that there is no (!) Preparation that would protect against UV 100%. The maximum SPF factor that can be declared on protective products is 50+, and it is not an absolute sunshade. A cosmetic with SPF 15 protects the skin against UV radiation in 93%, and with SPF 30 in 97%. So even when using a 50+ filter, we will get tan too, only slower. Is it safer? Not. Dermatologists are clear: there is no such thing as “safe tanning” or “healthy tan”. Redness and then browning of the skin is always (!) An adverse reaction from a dermatologist’s point of view.

Does sunscreen oil work the same as cream?

Yes. At the moment, the production technology allows you to add filters to the cosmetic in the form of an oil. Until recently, this was not possible because of the components that absorb radiation

UV feel best in cosmetics with thick creams.

I don’t sunbathe, I just lie under an umbrella …

This does not have a significant impact on the degree of exposure to harmful radiation. Although the fabric from which the umbrella was made can block UV rays in 80%, the rays reflected from water and sand will still reach us, but… from the bottom. – When it comes to clothes, thick, tightly woven fabrics protect the best against the sun – says Wioletta Kaniewska from the Elite Center for Laser Therapy and Body Modeling. – A regular cotton T-shirt the thinner or wetter it is, the less UVA protection and slightly UVB protection. Currently, specialized clothing made of polyester fibers coated with titanium dioxide nanoparticles is available. Such a T-shirt, even thin, has strong photoprotective properties. We can find it in every sports store – he ends. We should also remember this thing: when sunbathing, we are most afraid of burns, which causes burning of the skin – and this in turn causes UVB radiation. The painless UVA radiation is much more dangerous, as it does not cause immediate reddening of the skin. – UVA works through windows (attention of car drivers!) And fabrics, it is the same throughout the day, not even cloudy – says Wioletta Kaniewska. – Penetrates deep into the skin, destroys cell DNA, accelerates skin aging, causes neoplastic changes. So when buying a cream, let’s read to what extent it protects against UVA!

Why do the peoples of the North (where you do not experience six months of sunshine) have faces as full of wrinkles as the peoples of the South?

– Because photoaging is mostly caused by UVA radiation, and then UVB radiation, which is directly related to the “amount” of sun – says cosmetologist Wioletta Kaniewska. – UVA radiation is invisible, and it is not blocked by clouds or glass. It penetrates much deeper into the dermis, moreover, its doses accumulate in the skin, and the effect of its action is visible only after time. UVA is responsible for collagenase, i.e. collagen damage, damaging the DNA of cells and reducing the regeneration of the epidermis. There is a major cause of wrinkles, says the specialist.

Does the sun relieve acne symptoms?

Yes, but only seemingly and only temporarily. Acne and oily skin actually looks better after the holidays (I remember my mother’s exhortation when I was a teenager, “Put your face in the sun, you will dry your blackheads!”). The sun has an antibacterial effect, as a result of its action the skin becomes thicker, which delays the release of the serum onto the epidermis surface, tanned skin looks healthier. Hence the myth that UV rays have a positive effect on the skin. These are only appearances: already in September, people with acne-prone skin storm dermatologists’ offices with visible acute symptoms of acne, the so-called sun acne. Additionally: because oily skin does not accept some photoprotective preparations (physical filters, based on titanium dioxide or zinc oxide tubes, are indeed thick, difficult to absorb and can block the pores), people with acne skin are reluctant to apply them. So you should look for creams with filters, but those intended for oily skin.

How to protect your hair from the sun?

When we go on vacation, we always want to “get” our hairstyle earlier (so that it would be nicer and easier). We ask Mariusz Stawski, Kemon instructor, owner of the D&M Stawscy store in Warsaw, about whether it is worthwhile to have a permanent dye before going on vacation.

Of course, you can and should dye your hair before a sunny holiday. Once, it’s psychological comfort – after all, we want to look nice, feel good in our hair, and it’s hard to feel this way when you see roots in the mirror. Two – you should know that the very first dyeing process breaks down both the pigments and the hair structure, so if we do not protect the hair with another dye, the pigments will leach further, and the sun and water can wreak havoc on the hair. Another thing is to do the dyeing with products that do not interfere with the hair structure. When it comes to permanent waving, there are no contraindications to treat yourself to a permanent wave before the holiday, on one condition – after a perm, hair must be systematically cared for, intensively nourished. If it is not enough, I do not recommend doing permanent – and not only before the holidays. A vacation break cannot mean a break in hair care. Solar cosmetics in the form of shampoos, creams, masks, fluids or mists are suitable for summer hair. They work with the Actyva Linfa Solare line, based on lutein, ceramides, sunflower seed extract, with UV filters. Solar cosmetics protect against the breakdown of hair fibers and against color loss, restore the natural hydro-lipid balance of hair and skin, and at the same time sculpt, style and discipline.

Investigate suspicious birthmarks

We talk to prof. extra dr hab. n. med. Piotr Rutkowski, head of the Department of Tumors of Soft Tissues, Bones and Czerniaków, Plenipotentiary of the Director for Clinical Research of the Oncology Center – Institute of Maria Skłodowskiej-Curie in Warsaw. In the ’70s and’ 80s, people were sunbathing powerfully. Is there an increase in the incidence of melanoma among this generation, and a decrease among the later generations – more aware of the risks -?

The number of cases of melanoma doubles every 10 years. Taking into account the fact that several years must pass between the time of exposure to UV radiation and the formation of a cancer, the present increase in the incidence is the combined effect of behaviors from the 70s and 80s. Contrary to appearances, the fashion for sunbathing has not passed, it has only taken a different form. Today, people benefit from short but intense sun exposure during holiday trips to southern countries and a solarium, which was not available in the 70s. Women using tanning beds more than once a month increase the risk of melanoma by 55% (data from the National Cancer Institute from USA, 2004). During about 15 minutes spent in the solarium, the skin receives a dose of UVA radiation equal to a full day’s stay in the sun!

Is it true that smokers are less likely to get this type of cancer?

Such a discovery was published three years ago in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. However, smoking is one of the major factors in the development of many other cancers and heart disease, so it accounts for far more deaths than it is potentially “protective”.

Does melanoma develop on healthy skin or from birthmarks?

It can develop anywhere on the skin – more than half of melanomas develop in places where there was no birthmark before. However, if it seems to us that the moles have changed shape, color, enlarged or a new mole has appeared on the skin, which is rapidly enlarging and bulging – it should be examined by a doctor. We report suspicious changes to dermatologists and oncological surgeons who will examine the birthmark using a dermatoscope or videodermatoscope. But a XNUMX% diagnosis of melanoma can only be made after the lesion is surgically removed and examined by a histopathologist.

Remember!

Summer 2012 tanning plan

– We throw away cosmetics with filters from last year. High temperature and sunlight have already destroyed their effectiveness. Price? We do not buy the cheapest preparations (because we will spend more later on preparations to treat burns), but we do not have to spend a fortune on them right away. Average price shelf and proper filter height is ok.

– During the holidays, we reduce spraying with perfumes, put aside creams with fruit acids and retinol. In combination with the sun, they can cause immediate allergic reactions, followed by dark spots on the skin.

– Apply sun cream several minutes before going out into the sun. The cosmetic must have time to work. Wioletta Kaniewska, cosmetologist at the Elite Laser Therapy and Body Modeling Center, advises applying it in layers. First time, after three minutes, when water evaporates from the applied preparation, again. When it is soaked in two or three times, it will be harder to wipe it off the skin.

– Apply the photoprotective cosmetic in accordance with the instructions on the leaflet, so generously. Remember: the volume of one teaspoon is the amount of cream that should be applied to the face itself. Repeat the entire operation approximately every two hours.

– Let’s not avoid high factors. With the 50+ filter, unfortunately, we will also get tan. In many countries, when providing weather forecasts, local stations also provide the UV index, which is the minimum amount of UV protection that we should provide ourselves on a given day.

– Avoid the sun between 11.00 a.m. and 15.00 p.m. Then it operates most strongly.

Text: Agnieszka Prokopczyk