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Border roses are charming decorative bushes no more than 60 cm high, which designers use for a variety of purposes. They can complement the main composition, cover the bare stems of climbing or standard roses, frame a large flower bed or let it border along paths or dry streams. Graceful bushes with dark green leaves and lush flowers, made up of exquisitely carved petals, look great on their own in single and group plantings, they grow well in pots and beds. Unlike other types of roses, border roses bloom for a long time and luxuriantly.
How to plant?
Blooming from May to October or twice a season – in June and August – this is the main reason why border roses are always at the peak of popularity. Designers never forget about them, they can be found not only in parks and squares, but simply on city streets and squares. There are many varieties that differ in petal shape, flower color and flowering time. Almost all of them can live in a city apartment, and not just outdoors.
It is best to plant them in the spring, as soon as the earth thaws and warms up, miniature roses easily tolerate small frosts, but for this they need to take root and get stronger, and it is desirable to plant them in warm soil. The place must be chosen bright and protected from the wind. If the sun cannot shine on roses all day, then it is better to warm them in the morning.
The ideal option would be a place where roses basked in the sun in the morning and evening, and in the afternoon, at the hottest time, a shadow appeared, because they prefer temperatures within +20 degrees. The distance between the bushes is left at least 30 cm, sometimes up to 50 cm, if the bushes grow luxuriantly.
Small roses are not picky about the soil, but grow best and bloom profusely in light nutrient soil, so you need to provide them with as fertile loam as possible. Their roots grow up to more than 30 centimeters; peat and compost or humus must be added to this depth in the future flower bed. They dig a hole wider – with a depth and diameter of at least 40 cm, if the earth is not suitable, then more to create a comfortable soil. Before this, it is necessary to free the entire area from weeds and their roots, it is especially necessary to remove thistles and dandelions so that later they do not interfere with the growth of roses.
Before planting, it is advisable to keep seedlings with roots in water or at least wrapped in a wet cloth. Before planting, they are inspected, slightly shortened, removing dried or damaged parts (there should not be any), the shoots are also slightly cut 0,5 – 0,7 cm above a healthy kidney. Ground mixed with fertilizers is poured into the pit, and a seedling is placed on top so that all the roots are straightened. Then they carefully fall asleep, deepening the root neck 3-4 cm underground, tamping the soil, watering it well.
It is better to close young plants from spring frosts or night cold snaps, so when they take root and get stronger, slight frosts will not harm them, and in the first spring it is better to save them.
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From the video below, you will learn how to properly care for a curb rose.
Care
Planting and caring for these amazingly beautiful flowers does not cause much trouble, you just need to be an attentive owner, then border roses will delight you with long flowering. They love warmth, but not heat, they easily tolerate cold weather, and if the air warms up more than +25 degrees, the bush will be too hot, the roots can overheat, so in extreme heat it is better to mulch the ground around the bushes and shade the aerial part.
Watering
Roses are often watered, but not too plentiful, this should be done regularly, preferably in the evening, using settled water heated by the sun at room temperature. It is very important that the water does not stagnate, otherwise root rot may appear. It is desirable to water the ground under the bush, and not the bush itself, these roses do not like water falling on the greenery.
Additional fertilizing
The lush color almost all summer requires a lot of strength, so the rosette needs to be fed. They are carried out several times, but only until mid-summer, otherwise the plant will not prepare for winter, this is especially important where winter is harsh and comes early. Humus or manure is mixed with the top layer of the earth, evenly laid out under the bushes in the spring. In no case should you use fresh manure, it can burn the roots of even an adult plant.
When the first buds begin to form, you can water the bushes with calcium nitrate, 1 tablespoon of which is dissolved in a bucket of water. It is possible to water with such fertilizer only after a good watering with water, after it again pour water at least a little.
Roses respond well to watering with herbal mash or a solution of mullein infusion. Such top dressing can be carried out after 2 – 3 weeks. In the first year of life, roses are fed only in spring, and in autumn compost or peat is used for insulation, for the first year this is enough for them. The hotter the summer, the less top dressing you need to make, but in a cool rainy summer you can water it alternately with a solution of organic and mineral fertilizers every 2 weeks.
Since very hot or very rainy weather causes roses to endure stress, they can be very vulnerable. You can help them survive bad weather by using special preparations: Zircon, Epin, Ecosil. You can fertilize miniature roses with products for flowering plants that are sold in stores – this is much easier to do than to prepare solutions and infusions yourself.
Trimming
Sanitary and formative pruning is carried out all summer long, if you do it carefully, using a clean, sharp pruner, then the roses will tolerate it well, the main thing is to cut it off and not flatten the stem. In the first year, all shoots are pinched above the 5th – 6th leaf, this will make the bush lush, it is also desirable to cut the buds. In adult bushes, they continue to pinch or simply shorten the side shoots, and the central ones usually grow straight up.
You need to cut off damaged shoots, wilted flowers, this stimulates the formation of new branches and flowers. It is imperative to remove wild shoots, which often form on grafted plants, they differ in the number of parts of the leaves – in a varietal rose, the leaf consists of five parts, and in the wild rose – of seven. Such wild shoots cannot be shortened, because they will grow and multiply, they must be cut ruthlessly at the level of the root neck, for this you will have to slightly tear the ground near the root.
In autumn, long shoots are usually shortened, buds that have not had time to bloom are cut off, then the plant is prepared for wintering. As soon as the first night frosts appear, the fallen leaves are removed, the shoots are cut off for the last time, the bushes are spudded, raking at least 20 cm of earth.
Some flower growers lay the shoots on the planted spruce branches or peat, and cover the top with fallen leaves, spruce branches. Others prepare a frame, cover the plants with roofing felt, waterproof paper, and film. And still others spud and wait for snow, which will cover low plants. Any method is good – it all depends on the degree of severity of the winter, on the amount of snow that will fall from the very beginning.
The main thing is that the roses do not freeze.
Diseases and pests
Miniature roses, like all their other varieties, can get fungal diseases or get an infectious burn. Proper care, regular watering, the optimal amount of fertilizer should protect them from such troubles, but changeable weather, insects, wind and rain bring pathogens, in which case they will have to be fought.
Bordeaux liquid or 1% sulfur solution can help get rid of powdery mildew. The same sulfur and copper oxychloride will help cure rust. Copper oxychloride and Bordeaux liquid are used for black spotting. “Fundazol” will save you from an infectious burn. Any specialized store will offer many drugs that can cope with a standing or other disease, but it is imperative to cut and destroy the affected parts of the bush, disinfect the ground around, and maybe change its top layer, since spores can linger there to attack roses with renewed vigor in the spring .
Pests can weaken plants and bring on the pathogen. They must be destroyed or scared away. Spider mites, aphids, sawflies, leafhoppers – there are enough people who want to settle on leaves, shoots, rosebuds, feeding on their juice or leaf pulp. Ladybugs and lacewings do not harm roses, but eat many pests, so it is good to settle them nearby. Some plants repel parasites with their smell – these are marigolds, onions, sage.
Spider mite can infect roses in dry hot weather, it and aphids can be washed off with water: spray the bushes with a soap-copper solution or a solution of soap with wormwood. Wood ash, infusions of calendula, garlic and yarrow can be a good prevention, but if the parasites have already wound up and do not want to leave the flower bed, then you will have to use fungicides. “Aktara”, “Aktofit”, “Mospilan”, “BI-58” – these and others can be bought in the store, carefully study the instructions before use.
How do they reproduce
If you want to grow roses on your plot, it is best to buy seedlings from a reputable nursery. But if you or your friends already have a rose that you want to breed, then this can be done in several ways.
Reproduction by cuttings
In the first half of summer, semi-lignified shoots should be cut, divided into short (10–12 cm) parts with 2–3 buds, planted in moist, light, breathable soil, after shortening the leaves by half, cover with a glass jar and water for a couple of months, sometimes lifting the jar for ventilation. Such a greenhouse will help them take root. Some flower growers suggest lowering one cut for a while into a drug that stimulates root growth, or watering already planted cuttings with a similar drug. In the fall, they should be dug into the sand and transferred to the cellar, and in the spring they should be planted in a permanent place. Cuttings usually root well, but in winter they can freeze, so it is better to plant them in spring.
Propagation by seedlings
If you have an adult bush, then it can be easily divided into several seedlings and planted separately. The bush must be dug up, carefully divided so that each part has a root and shoot, they may well turn into separate healthy bushes. This is also best done in the spring before bud break.
You can still dig a flexible shoot from spring, pin it for immobility, water it, protect it – by autumn you can get a rooted layering. And it is worth cutting it off from the mother plant next spring.
Reproduction by seeds
In stores you can find seeds of different varieties of roses, but they are most often dealt with for the sake of breeding new varieties, that is, scientists rather than flower growers. This is due to the long term and troubles that not every fan will go to.
Seeds are soaked, germinated for at least 15 days at a temperature of +20 degrees. The prepared seeds are placed in boxes with fertile light soil to a depth of 0,5 cm. This is done in the fall, the crops are kept at a temperature of +3 to +5 degrees all winter. And only by the beginning of summer you can wait for shoots. It is clear that roses will not give flowers either this or next year. But this method fully justifies itself when a collector finds seeds from a rare rose, for the sake of its flowers it is worth bothering.
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This video shows how to properly plant roses in the fall.
