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Safe toiletries are possible!
The newborn has very fragile and immature skin. During the first weeks, it is not yet covered with the hydrolipidic film which protects it from external aggressions. “Baby’s skin is no more permeable than that of an adult, but its skin surface area in relation to its weight is very important,” emphasizes Professor Gérard Lorette, dermatologist at the University Hospital of Tours. This means that it is potentially more at risk of being contaminated with chemicals. »Especially at the level of the seat, because this area is closed and often humid when the baby is not regularly changed, the products then penetrate easily into the skin, especially if they are not rinsed. In a study published last February, the non-governmental organization Women in Europe for a Common Future (WECF) sounded the alarm. Ingredients or families of ingredients classified as “high risk” were found in 299 products for washing babies (shampoos, wipes or even cleansing milks). That same month, Women in Europe for a Common Future pinned 185 common cosmetics containing compounds of concern, including baby wipes. Among them, we find allergens, preservatives or even perfumes, substances having an impact on health, alone or in combination with others.
Regulated products
Currently, in France as in all of Europe, the standards applicable to cosmetics are set by a European regulation which defines the authorized substances, with what concentration limit, those which are prohibited (more than a thousand), the compulsory information on the label. At European level, the Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety (CSSC) carries out risk assessments and issues opinions on the safety of cosmetic ingredients. In France, the National Agency for Medicines and Health Products Safety (ANSM) also issues recommendations to help the French authorities take appropriate measures. However, it is not easy to navigate between the regulations and the alerts of scientists. The substances incriminated by WECF and Que Choisir are indeed authorized, in small quantities, by European regulations. And serious manufacturers usually use them in doses even lower than allowable. Under the aegis of their federation, the FEBEA, French cosmetic companies adopted in 2009 “good practices for the development of toiletries for children under 3”. In 2013, they committed to removing methylisothiazolinone (MIT) from leave-on products. But when in doubt, apply the precautionary principle!
Ingredients to absolutely avoid!
Before buying a baby care product, first reflex, carefully examine its composition … with a magnifying glass if necessary! All the ingredients are mentioned on the label on the back of the product in descending order of concentration, except below 1% where they can then appear anywhere, including at the beginning of the list and even in bold. You are not a chemist, and while the labeling may not necessarily be clear, there are certain substances that should grab your attention. Although authorized by the regulations, three of them are in fact classified as “high risk” by WECF.
Methylisothiazolinone (MITThis preservative, used in many skincare products to replace parabens, is particularly allergenic. As early as 2012, the French Society of Dermatology (SFD) warned of the risk of facial and seat eczema triggered by the use of cleansing wipes containing this preservative.
Phenoxyethanol
Omnipresent in cosmetics, especially for babies, it could soon be banned in products that are used without rinsing. This preservative who has made a lot of talk in recent years, is used in the composition of creams for the body, the face, in sunglasses, but also in wipes. It is suspected of having toxic effects on reproduction: it is what is called an endocrine disruptor, a substance which has the ability to interfere with hormonal messages and to disrupt them. However, the hormonal system is very fragile at certain key periods of life, particularly in babies whose bodies are immature. Since 2012, the National Medicines Safety Agency (ANSM) recommends no longer using phenoxyethanol in products intended to clean the baby’s buttocks, and to reduce the maximum content to 0,4% for children under 3 years.
The perfumes
“We were surprised to find so many baby products containing perfumes, even though we know that they promote allergies,” underlines Elisabeth Ruffinengo, WECF’s health and environment project manager. And organic products are also concerned even if the perfumes used present a little less risk because of natural origin. “
“Moderate risk” substances
Don’t put your magnifying glass down! The WECF association has also identified cosmetic ingredients presenting a “moderate risk”, identifiable under different names on product labels. There is a preservative, EDTA (disodium, tetrasodium, calcium disodium) and emulsifiers, such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS). These foaming agents, present in large part in bath products and shampoos, are irritating and potentially allergenic. Mineral oils labeled under the name petrolatum, paraffinum or mineral oil are used to improve the hydrating power of care. They are often present in baby products. Problem: of poor quality, they may contain impurities (hydrocarbons) in greater than normal quantity. As for parabens, whose reputation is well established, they are hardly ever found in baby cosmetics. Two of them, propylparaben and butylparaben have been banned in leave-in care products intended for application to the seat since 2014. As for sunscreens, they often use mineral filters, reduced to l state of nanoparticles (nano on the label), to avoid white marks. The effects of these substances are poorly documented, so it is better to abstain if you see this mention on the packaging. To limit the risks, “Prefer products bearing organic labels (Ecocert, Cosmebio, Nature et Progrès, NaTrue), advises Elisabeth Ruffinengo. They contain at least 95% of ingredients of natural origin. “