Azelaic Facial Peeling: Properties and Applications

We will tell you in detail what azelaic peeling is for the face, for whom it is suitable and whether it is worth doing it yourself – this information will be useful to owners of problem skin and not only them.

What is an azelaic peel?

Azelaic Facial Peeling is a chemical peeling (skin exfoliation) procedure using azelaic acid, which is considered one of the most gentle. And not in vain: the fact is that azelaic acid (azeliac acid) belongs to the class of carboxylic acids that do not penetrate deep into the epidermis, but act on the most superficial stratum corneum of the skin, that is, they exfoliate only dead cells.

So azelaic peeling, being a mild keratolytic agent, does not cause visible peeling and in most cases is easily tolerated, which makes its use appropriate for people with sensitive skin. Azelaic acid peels are often used as a preparatory step for more active acid peels, as well as in combination with professional facial cleansing.

The effect of azelaic peeling for the face

In addition to the ability to gently and gradually renew the skin, azelaic acid has a number of other characteristic features, thanks to which it is actively and successfully used in cosmetology:

  • sebum-regulating properties (normalizes the production of sebum);

  • anti-inflammatory effect;

  • the ability to suppress pathogenic microflora;

  • antifungal effect;

  • ability to regulate melanin synthesis.

“The main indications for azelaic peeling are non-inflammatory and inflammatory acne, oily skin, enlarged pores, post-acne, hyperkeratosis, hyperpigmentation,” comments Maria Nevskaya.

Preparations for azelaic peeling may include other acids to enhance a particular effect: salicylic, glycolic, lactic, almond, as well as retinol and plant extracts.

Since azelaic peeling is superficial, cosmetologists usually prescribe a long course – an average of 5-6 procedures. The duration depends on the initial condition of the skin. At the end of the course:

  • it becomes more matte and clean;

  • tone and microrelief are aligned;

  • sebaceous plugs disappear;

  • pigment spots are lightened;

  • redness and the appearance of pores are reduced.

According to confirmed data, azelaic acid affects all the factors that provoke acne: increased secretion of the sebaceous glands, hyperkeratosis, reproduction of microorganisms, inflammation.

Azelaic acid cleanses the skin of sebaceous plugs and spots

Azelaic acid gel application has also been shown to be an effective therapeutic option for rosacea. At the same time, azelaic peeling refers to professional care, which is usually recommended by a dermatologist. It is important to choose the concentration, frequency of use and duration of the course.

Indications for peeling with azelaic acid

As mentioned above, azelaic peeling has a multifaceted effect, and the list of indications is impressive in its diversity:

  • hypersebaceous skin;

  • acne (black dots);

  • acne;

  • post-acne spots;

  • post-inflammatory pigmentation;

  • гиперпигментация;

  • hyperkeratosis (thickening of the stratum corneum of the epidermis);

  • rosacea.

How is azelaic peeling performed by a cosmetologist?

The technique of a professional azelaic peel is not too different from that of any other acid peel.

  1. The skin is thoroughly cleansed and degreased.

  2. Depending on the specific preparation, the composition is rubbed into the skin or applied with a brush. Multi-layer application is possible.

  3. The drug is kept on the skin for up to 15 minutes.

  4. Then wash off with water.

  5. A soothing moisturizing mask is applied to the face.

After the procedure, there is usually no feeling of tightness or swelling, although some temporary redness is possible.

For follow-up care, cosmetologists usually recommend moisturizing and soothing creams, as well as, without fail, products with a high SPF to avoid the development of hyperpigmentation.

Since azelaic peeling is non-aggressive and does not cause rapid cell exfoliation, the effect will appear towards the end of the course, so do not rush to evaluate the result “before and after” – it will appear after 4-5 procedures. Gradual and comfortable recovery are more pros than cons, especially if you have sensitive skin.

As for contraindications to azelaic peeling, they are standard and not numerous:

  • pregnancy and lactation;

  • herpes in the acute stage;

  • wounds;

  • individual intolerance to peeling components.

Is it possible to do azelaic peeling on my own?

Why do we need azelain peeling, we found out. Now, quite naturally, another question arises. Since azelain peeling is so gentle and safe, why not do it yourself at home? It seems that there is nothing complicated here – just follow the instructions, which describe in detail how to do azelaic peeling: how to apply, how much to keep, how to rinse, and so on. Sorry but no. We are against such initiative.

Arbitrarily prescribing yourself professional preparations with acids – even the most harmless ones – you can cause serious trouble.

But there is good news: there are homemade peeling masks, peeling serums, peeling lotions with a low concentration of azelaic acid (up to 5%). Of course, they will not be able to give such a pronounced effect as professional procedures, but with regular use they will certainly help to even out the tone and texture of the skin, help make it smoother, matte and cleaner. Sometimes such products are recommended to be applied locally – to problem areas with increased greasiness or pigmentation.

Overview of home peeling products

If you want to experience all the benefits of a home peel, check out our selection of renewing products with various acids and retinol.

Nightly Refining Micro-Peel Concentrate, Kiehl’s

The formula with fruit acids, quinoa husk and cactus extracts gently renews the skin, gradually making it smoother, even, radiant.

Peeling serum night action in ampoules Liftactiv Specialist Glyco-C, Vichy

This home peel promises fast and noticeable results: within a week, skin tone evens out, and after two months, age spots become less pronounced. The secret of the formula is a combination of a complex of acids (glycolic, citric) and vitamin C, which can restore freshness and radiance to the skin. Try this ampoule “rejuvenation course”.

Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum, Kiehl’s

This formula includes a small amount of retinol, which, however, is quite enough to start the process of gradual skin renewal. And to make it flow comfortably, the composition includes ceramide, which strengthens the skin barrier. According to consumer tests, after 12 weeks of use (once a day, in the evening), the skin becomes firmer, smoother, and there are fewer wrinkles.

Night serum, 0,2% pure retinol for all types of wrinkles “Revitalift Laser x3”, L’Oréal Paris

Night care with retinol is aimed at correcting age-related changes (wrinkles, uneven, dull skin). 100% of the women who took part in the test confirmed the effectiveness of this product against deep wrinkles! Read more about this product here.

Ampoules “Revitalift Laser x3” peeling effect with glycolic acid, L’Oréal Paris

Want to do an acid peel at home? We support your intentions and recommend doing this with 10% glycolic acid ampoules, which will help the skin shed dead cells, smooth and shine. Just remember to protect yourself from UV radiation during the day, in any weather.

Retexturing Activator Moisturizing Serum, SkinCeuticals

Thanks to the combination of amino sulfonic acid, urea, fermented kombucha tea and hyaluronic acid, this treatment effectively stimulates cell renewal without discomfort.

Glyciolic Renew Overnight, SkinCeuticals

Glycolic and phytic acids in combination with emollients help the skin quickly get rid of dead cells, become smoother and more radiant. The cream is applied to the face and neck – first every other day, and then daily (more precisely, every evening).

Serum against imperfections and signs of aging Blemish and Age Defense, SkinCeuticals

The action of the serum is aimed at solving two problems: imperfections and age-related changes (yes, even in adulthood, the skin can be problematic). Formulated with acids to help exfoliate the skin, unclog pores and reduce the appearance of imperfections. Apply after cleansing to the face, neck and décolleté.

Summary results

About azelain peeling in questions and answers.

What are the benefits of Azelaic Peeling?

Azelaic peeling is an acid peeling, which is carried out with preparations based on azelaic acid. This is a superficial and at the same time very effective procedure. It does not cause violent peeling, acts gently, is suitable for sensitive skin and at the same time is an effective method of correction for excessively oily, problematic skin, as well as for pigmentation and hypernecrosis. And according to recent scientific data, even with rosacea.

How does an azelaic peel work?

Due to the peculiarities of azelaic acid, peeling based on it exfoliates dead cells, regulates the function of the sebaceous glands, has an anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effect, and affects the synthesis of melanin.

What is included in the azelaic peel?

As is often the case with peels, azelaic acid can be combined with other acids in preparations: salicylic (for problem skin), glycolic (exfoliates and fights the effects of photoaging), lactic and mandelic (act as the same mild keratolytics).

Is it possible to do azelaic peeling at home?

It is strongly not recommended to use the professional composition on your own, even if you have studied the peeling technique. For home use, there are special products with a low acid content. The effect will not be so fast and pronounced, but the risk of a negative reaction is minimized. The inept use of even a mild azelaic peel can lead to increased problems with hyperpigmentation and skin sensitivity.

How often can an azelain peel be done?

Azelaic peeling in the salon (or clinic) is usually prescribed in a course of 5-7 sessions with an interval of 7-14 days. The result is cumulative, it can be estimated on average after the fourth procedure.

What is the result after azelaic peeling?

The greasiness of the skin decreases, the surface of the epidermis becomes smoother, lighter, even, acne manifestations decrease, age spots brighten.

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