Apple tree: how to grow a good harvest

Currently, a huge number of varieties of apple trees have been bred. All of them are different in taste, size, they have their own characteristics of agricultural technology, but in general, the care of these trees is similar.

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Traditionally, apple trees are planted in the garden in mid-April or mid-October (1). But this is about seedlings with an open root system. Modern seedlings are most often sold in containers, and they can be planted throughout the season – from April to October. But we must remember that in summer it is often very hot, so the seedlings will need to be watered well and often.

They dig holes for an apple tree with a diameter of 1 m and a depth of 60 – 70 cm. It is better to do this a month before planting a tree – if it is planned to plant it in the fall. And if in the spring, then you need to dig it in the fall. This is necessary in order for the soil to “ripen”. With this preparation, seedlings take root much better.

When planting, it is important that the root collar – the place where the roots enter the trunk – be at the same level as it was in the container.

Care of the apple tree

Caring for an apple tree includes 3 important activities.

Watering

For good growth, apple trees need 4 waterings per season:

• early spring, before bud break;
• 2 – 3 weeks after flowering;
• 2 – 3 weeks before harvest;
• in October, after the leaves fall off – this is the so-called moisture-charging watering, it is needed to increase the winter hardiness of the tree.

The rate of watering depends on the age of the tree:

• 3 – 5 years – 50 – 80 l;
• 6 – 10 years – 120 – 150 l;
• over 10 years old – 200 liters.

Feeding

During the season, the apple tree needs 4 top dressings:

• at the end of April: 3 cups of urea evenly in the near-stem circle according to the diameter of the crown, and then pour;
• when the buds appear: 5 cups of superphosphate, 3 cups of potassium sulfate, 20 liters of mullein (or 3,5 cups of urea) per 200 liters of water – the consumption rate is 50 liters per tree;
• at the beginning of the ripening of the crop: 5 glasses of complex fertilizer (nitrophoska or azofoska), 20 g of dry sodium humate per 200 liters of water – the consumption rate is 3 buckets per tree;
• after harvesting: 1,5 cups of superphosphate and 1 cup of potassium sulfate – sprinkle in the near-stem circle along the diameter of the crown and water.

In addition, once every 1 years, apple trees need to be fed with rotted manure. Doses depend on age (per tree):

• up to 2 years – 12 – 15 kg;
• 3 – 4 years – 25 – 30 kg;
• 5 – 6 years – 30 – 40 kg;
• 7 – 8 years – 40 – 50 kg;
• 9 – 10 years – 50 – 60 kg;
• over 11 years old – 80 kg.

Treatment of diseases and pests

In order for the apple trees to be healthy, they need to be processed 4 times during the season, and you only need 2 preparations:

• early in the spring, until the buds have blossomed: with a Bordeaux mixture (2) – this is against fungal diseases (it is necessary to spray the trees themselves and the soil in the near-trunk circle);
• when the buds appear: Fufanon (2) – this is from pests and ticks;
• after the petals fall off: Fufanon (2), and a day later – Bordeaux mixture (2);
• after harvesting the fruits: Fufanon (2), and a day later – Bordeaux mixture (2).

The drugs must be used according to the instructions. Processing is preferably carried out on a sunny, windless day.

Trimming an apple tree

Pruning an apple tree should be done every year – this is the key to its health and large yields. The crown should be sparse and have the shape of a bowl – with such a formation, air does not stagnate inside, the tree is well blown, and this reduces the risk of developing diseases.

Pruning can be carried out at any time of the year, even in winter, but on condition that the air temperature is not lower than -5 ° C. The exception is mid-April, when active sap flow begins.

The first step in the apple tree is to cut out all the dry and diseased branches. Then – all that grow inside the crown. It is useful to shorten shoots that are too long – they are cut to the outer soil so that the new shoot does not grow inside the crown, but outside.

In summer, you need to constantly cut out tops – fattening shoots. And do not wait until they become large – it is better to pluck them while they are small and green.

Apple varieties

There are now a great many varieties of apple trees, several hundred, and often summer residents, when choosing a variety, are guided by the taste of the fruit. This is correct, but not enough – it is also important to pay attention to the regions in which this variety is zoned. For example, there are varieties that are recommended only for the southern regions of Our Country. There are for the north, Siberia, the Far East. And there are universal ones that can be planted anywhere. All these data can be found in the Register of Breeding Achievements (3).

Is it possible to plant an apple tree that is not recommended for your region?

“Maybe,” he says. agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mihailova, but be prepared for problems. For example, varieties intended for the southern regions may freeze slightly in the north in winter. Apple trees recommended for regions with arid climates will be heavily affected by diseases in humid conditions.

In general, when choosing a variety, you need to pay attention to 4 criteria:

• taste – professional tasters rate the best varieties 4,5 – 5 points;
• productivity – the higher it is, the better;
• frost resistance – this indicator is important if apple trees are grown in regions with severe winters;
• resistance to diseases and pests.

There are not many varieties that have all these qualities at their best, but they do exist (taste rating is indicated in brackets).

The best summer varieties of apple trees:

• Orlovim (4,5);
• Sergiana (4,7);
• Wonderful (4,9).

The best autumn varieties of apple trees:

• Baltic (4,5);
• Daughter of Antonovka (4,8);
• Scale (4,8);
• Assumption (4,6).

The best winter varieties of apple trees:

• Belarusian sweet (4,6);
• Bryansk (4,8);
• Vesyalyna (4,5);
• Rtishchev’s firstborn (5,0).

How to pick apples

With summer varieties that are intended for eating right away, you should not bother – you can even collect carrion. The same is true if you plan to make jam or juice from apples. But autumn and winter apples, which will be stored in winter, must be collected according to the rules. What is important to consider:

• pick fruits with ponytails (stalks) – this way they are stored longer;
• clean in the morning or evening when there is no heat;
• remove apples with fabric gloves so as not to accidentally damage the skin with your nails – injured fruits quickly rot;
• in no case do not wipe or wash off the plaque – this is a natural wax that helps the fruits lie longer in the cellar.

Rules for storing apples

There are different ways to store apples, but the simplest are two.

In the boxes. It is better to take wooden boxes, with small gaps between the boards. Before laying the crop, it is useful to hold them in the sun for 2 – 3 hours – ultraviolet will destroy pathogens.

Apples are placed in boxes in 2 layers, stalks down so that the tail of the upper fruit is between the lower ones.

When the apples are stacked, they need to fall asleep. There are several options, any is good, it all depends on your capabilities. Suitable as a filler:

• shavings or sawdust of deciduous trees (conifers are not suitable – apples smell of resin);
• buckwheat husk;
• dry oak leaves;
• bracken fern leaves;
• dry sphagnum moss;
• dried lemon balm;
• sand.

Crates of apples should be stored in the cellar.

In packages. In this variant, the fruits are folded into ordinary plastic bags of 2 kg each. Packages for 2 – 3 days are left open – this is necessary for the apples to sweat. Then the bags are tightly crimped to remove air from them and tied with a strong rope.

It is necessary to store the packages in the cellar on the racks so that they do not touch each other.

Popular questions and answers

We asked to answer the popular questions of summer residents about apple trees agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mikhailova.

Sources of

1. Dubrova P.F., Egorov V.I., Kamshilov N.A., Koroleva N.I. and others. Spavochnik gardener, ed. Second // State publishing house of agricultural literature, Moscow, 1955 – 606 p.
2. State catalog of pesticides and agrochemicals permitted for use on the territory of the Federation as of July 6, 2021 // Ministry of Agriculture of the Federation

   https://mcx.gov.ru/ministry/departments/departament-rastenievodstva-mekhanizatsii-khimizatsii-i-zashchity-rasteniy/industry-information/info-gosudarstvennaya-usluga-po-gosudarstvennoy-registratsii-pestitsidov-i-agrokhimikatov/

3. State Register of Breeding Achievements

   https://reestr.gossortrf.ru/