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Acne, blackheads, pimples – this problem has many names, which does not reduce the desire to get rid of it as soon as possible. Before you get involved in the battle with the enemy, you need to study his habits and weaknesses. We find out the causes of acne in order to deal with them more effectively.
Causes of acne
One of the main ones is increased greasiness of the skin. It is the hyperactivity of the sebaceous glands that can lead to such minor troubles as black dots on the nose, and such large ones as acne. In most cases, excessive activity of the sebaceous glands is due to internal causes, but there are exceptions to every rule.
Oily skin is most susceptible to acne.
Hormones
Hormonal imbalance is considered the main cause of acne on the face. Increased activity of the sebaceous glands can be triggered by the influence of male sex hormones (androgens). What matters is not so much their concentration and quantity in the blood, but the relationship with the sebaceous glands, which are not indifferent to androgens and literally attract them to themselves. As a result of these relationships, the sebaceous glands begin to work to their fullest.
The process is especially rapid during puberty, when hormonal changes occur in the body. Therefore, acne most often affects adolescents and young people under 25 years of age. People with oily skin are at higher risk.
Genetics
It is assumed that the type of skin, as well as the degree of sensitivity of the sebaceous glands to male hormones, is inherited. If one of the parents has oily skin, and had acne and pimples in adolescence, then you and your children are not immune from this. But do not rush to get upset: forewarned means armed.
The tendency to acne is inherited.
Food
For decades, there have been discussions about whether there is a direct connection between the formation of acne and nutrition. Some experts believe that the diet has little effect on skin greasiness and a predisposition to acne, while others argue the opposite. Some people note the aggravation of acne with the abuse of certain products. The list of prime suspects includes:
refined carbohydrates (white flour, processed rice, corn flakes);
sugar in all its manifestations and sugar-containing products, including fruits and everyone’s favorite smoothies;
dairy products, including cheese.
disease
Since the activity of the sebaceous glands is regulated by sex hormones, then acne may well be a manifestation of some diseases of the endocrine system. But diseases of the digestive system, according to recent data, are less likely to cause excessive greasiness and the appearance of acne, but they can aggravate the severity of the course of inflammatory processes.
Stress
Stress has a negative effect on the body as a whole and on the condition of the skin in particular, striking at its immunity. In people with oily skin type, stress can in some cases provoke increased sebum secretion and exacerbation of acne.
A greasy cream with a heavy texture provokes an exacerbation of acne.
Improper care
While sebaceous gland activity and acne proneness are related to internal causes, cosmetics that can worsen acne in people with oily and combination skin types should not be discounted. They should avoid:
too oily creams and dense textures;
products based on mineral and silicone oils and waxes.
Such cosmetic products clog pores and prevent the free exit of sebum.
Check if you are taking care of problem skin properly.
Professional activity
In people who, on duty, are in constant contact with petroleum products or building dust, acne may appear due to clogged pores associated with external factors. You can treat them in two ways:
change profession;
carefully observe hygiene and use special protective equipment.
“Acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the sebaceous glands that occurs as a result of their blockage and increased production of sebum,” says Alexander Prokofiev, dermatovenereologist, La Roche-Posay brand expert.
Sebaceous glands are found all over the skin, except for the palms and feet. They are most densely located on the skin of the face. People with oily skin are at a higher risk of developing acne, but those with dry skin are also not immune from it.”
Varieties of acne
The size, number and depth of the sebaceous glands vary greatly. When they work normally, sebum freely rises to the surface of the skin and lubricates it with a thin layer, forming a natural protective film. If sebum is produced in excess or its composition and consistency change (becomes more viscous), then the sebaceous gland is no longer able to push it out.
The sebum stuck halfway along with dead cells forms a kind of congestion – a sebaceous plug. Actually, this is a comedone, or acne. Comedones are different. They differ in depth, color, presence or absence of an inflammatory element.
open comedones
They are called blackheads or blackheads. Indeed, the hallmark of open comedones is their dark color. The black dot is the tip of the sebaceous plug. Open comedones are considered the most harmless, since they are easily and completely removed during cosmetic cleansing and, if measures are taken in time, do not become inflamed.
Closed comedones
They are also whiteheads, which look like white subcutaneous tubercles resembling millet. They differ in that the accumulated sebum has no way out. The reasons for the appearance of whiteheads are the same.
Unlike blackheads, whiteheads are much more likely to turn into full-fledged pimples. Indeed, inside the clogged sebaceous gland, which does not have access to the surface of the skin, an ideal environment is formed for the reproduction of bacteria and the onset of inflammatory processes.
papules
These are red dense tubercles that rise above the skin. Simply put, a papule is the most common pimple without a purulent head. Often papules are the result of inflammation in the sebaceous gland.
Pustules
Acne crowned with a purulent vesicle (head). Like papules, these are inflammatory elements of acne. In their place, a congestive red spot may form, but they usually do not leave scars.
Acne can become inflamed and turn into pimples.
Nodes
Deep inflammatory elements, or “internal”, “subcutaneous” acne. Large in appearance, dense and painful to the touch, they rarely pass without a trace – they can leave scars and congestive pigmentation.
Pink (red) acne
The causes of the formation of red or pink acne are not associated with increased sebum and acne. This is a sign of rosacea – a skin disease characterized by changes in the vascular wall and inflammation in the skin. Rosacea is localized on the convex parts of the face (nose, cheeks, forehead, chin), occurs most often in adults with fair skin, is accompanied by reddening of the skin and visible vascular network.
Degrees of acne
The degree is calculated by the quantitative ratio of inflammatory and non-inflammatory comedones on the face. Calculation can be done independently with the help of an honest selfie in the most “favorable” angle.
Severity | Comedones | Papules and pustules | Nodes | Inflammation | Scarring |
Light (I) | less 20 | less 10 | |||
Medium (II) | more 20 | 10-20 | |||
Heavy (III) | more 20 | more 20 | |||
Very heavy (IV) | lot | lot |
Easy degree. It is characterized by the presence of a small number of comedones and single superficial pimples; no nodes, no inflammatory processes are observed.
Average degree. The number of comedones and papules has exceeded 10 and can reach 25, pustules have already appeared. There are no nodes yet, but the skin around the pimples has a red or bluish tint, which indicates the presence of inflammation.
Severe degree. There are multiple comedones, papules and pustules (pustules), painful nodes (deep acne) also appear, leaving scars behind.
Very heavy. The number of abscesses and deep nodes is so great that they merge together and there are almost no healthy areas left on the skin. The face becomes red, deep scars appear.
Acne for different skin types
Despite the fact that acne is rightly associated with increased sebum, acne can be found even in owners of normal skin type.
Normal skin. Pimples rarely appear, except when they occur against the backdrop of regular monthly fluctuations in hormones. Single comedones may appear a few days before the start of the menstrual cycle, and then disappear without a trace.
Combination skin. Acne and pimples can occur on oily areas of the skin, in the so-called T-zone. Most often, the matter does not go beyond black dots on the nose and small rashes before the onset of menstruation.
Oily skin. This “sufferer” takes the rap for everyone, because nature has rewarded her with the ability to produce a large amount of sebum. Owners of oily skin should always keep their finger on the pulse to prevent comedones from turning into inflammatory elements (pimples) and not to allow inflammation to spread in breadth and depth.
When to see a doctor
The main mistake is to think that acne will go away on its own. Lack of timely treatment can lead to the appearance of scars and pigmentation, which are difficult to correct.
Ingredients for acne
Comprehensive treatment of acne involves the use of drugs for both external and internal use. Below is a list of the most effective ingredients in topical products.
Salicylic acid
It promotes the outflow of sebum and the elimination of sebaceous plugs, has an anti-inflammatory and exfoliating effect.
Vitamin A derivatives
They reduce the production of sebum and reduce hyperkeratosis, have anti-inflammatory properties.
Zinc
Dries, prevents the appearance of inflammatory rashes.
Cosmetic treatments for acne
There are not so many effective cosmetic procedures aimed directly at combating acne, but they are time-tested and have proven their worth.
Cosmetic cleaning is an important step in the treatment of acne.
Manual cleaning
It is prescribed for comedones and shallow acne, has a pronounced aesthetic and preventive effect. Today, there are special lines of professional cosmetics that prepare the skin so that cleaning is easy and without a trace. But the success of the enterprise is still in the hands of the cosmetologist and depends on his professionalism.
Acid peeling
Some acids fight not only the thickening of the skin (hyperkeratosis), which interferes with normal sebum secretion, but also the bacteria that multiply in the sebaceous gland and cause inflammation. The acid composition, concentration and pH level are selected individually.
Cryomassage
Massage with liquid nitrogen is a classic of the genre. It dries up pimples and perfectly fights stagnant spots.
How to deal with acne at home
Acne cannot be cured with home remedies, but adequate skin care can be provided.
Masks
Mineral masks based on white and green clay are not able to affect the sebaceous glands. But they deeply cleanse the surface of the skin from fat and impurities, reduce swelling and relieve redness. We have selected several worthy representatives of the genre.
Mask that deeply cleanses pores and evens out skin texture Clarifying Clay Masque, Skinceuticals – kaolin in combination with hydroxy acids thoroughly but gently cleanses the skin, simultaneously smoothing its surface by exfoliating dead skin cells.
Mask “Magic of Clay. Cleansing and Matting “, L’Oréal Paris contains three types of clay with the addition of eucalyptus extract, famous for its antiseptic properties.
Mineral mask with clay, purifying pores, Vichy It contains two types of white clay (kaolin and bentonite) that draw impurities from the pores, plus moisturizing ingredients so as not to overdry the skin.
Creams and SOS products
Choose moisturizing creams for problematic skin, as well as quick-response spot-on products – they will help to localize and mitigate inflammation.
Corrective care against imperfections Normaderm 24h moisturizing, Vichy alleviates the condition of skin suffering from periodic or persistent manifestations of acne.
Corrective agent of local action Effaclar AI, La Roche-Posay inhibits the development of inflammatory elements, relieves discomfort and prevents the formation of post-acne traces, including due to the exfoliating effect.
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Corrective emulsion for oily skin Effaclar K (+), La Roche-Posay evens out the relief of the skin, renewing it and supplying it with vitamins, as well as sebum-regulating components that control oily sheen.
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