A good bra – easy to say, harder to choose

Although it is an everyday item of clothing for almost every woman, it is often treated neglectfully. After all, what we wear under the blouse serves aesthetics, comfort and health.

If we were to stick to medical terminology in this article, we would have to use professional names when writing about a woman’s bust: mammary gland or mammary gland. However, while the first of them reduces the bust only to the role of “a food factory for young mammals,” the second may mislead the reader. The word “nipple” is an everyday synonym for the nipple that crowns the entire gland, occupying the center of the circular, pigmented area – the nipple that directly secretes milk. Therefore, for the sake of clarity, let us use the colloquial expression. That cone-shaped or hemispherical loft at the front of the chest is called the breast!

What’s in the breast?

The breast is made of adipose and glandular tissues, as well as the milk ducts, blood and lymph vessels and nerves. Its tissue composition depends on age. In young breasts, glandular tissue predominates, which gives them firmness and elasticity.

In mature women, at the time of the menopause, there is more body fat, which keeps the breasts soft, but also causes them to sag over time. Under the influence of gravity, adipose tissue – looser and less cohesive than glandular – moves from the upper bust to the lower bust, causing it to slowly lower. Good appearance of the breasts also depends on the condition of the muscle to which it is attached by ligaments, and the skin that covers it. Although the epidermis of the breast is thin and delicate, it forms a corset for the breasts. If it loses its elasticity – for example due to hormonal changes, feeding, or weight gain and weight loss – it will no longer support it.

The adipose tissue of the breast has one more task – it gives them individual size and shape. However, like other even parts of the body, the dimensions of the breasts may also vary. Both glands do not grow at the same rate. This difference evens out with age, and the slight disproportions that may remain are imperceptible and do not affect the functioning of the breasts. The size and shape of the nipples are also individual for each of the ladies. In some they “stick out” through clothing, in others they lie flat against the skin, and in others they can be pulled into the breast.

Perfect, charming and flawless breasts can be found, unfortunately, only in literary works. In fact, they are not disease free. The most serious is cancer, which is diagnosed every year in approx. 15 thousand. Polish women. Benign changes may also appear in the breasts – cysts, fibroadenomas, papillomas. The breasts are also subject to various deformations. They may be too small (underdevelopment) or too large (hypertrophy), they may develop stretch marks, hair or extra nipples.

So what can we do for the bust to keep it healthy for as long as possible and enjoy us (and others) with a beautiful appearance? First of all: take care of it carefully and daily with cosmetics, especially during the feeding period. Second: do not allow weight fluctuations – the bust “gets fat” and “loses weight” just like other parts of the body; in the first case, stretch marks may appear on it, in the second – it loses its firmness and falls. Third: wear a well-chosen bra!

Bra anatomy

Although most of us wear bras, the corset language is still incomprehensible for many, which creates a lot of problems when buying a bra. So when a clerk in a lingerie shop speaks of a cup, she is referring to the hemisphere of the fabric embracing the breast. It is the shape of the cup that is responsible for the appropriate style of the bra and the way the breast is arranged in it. Sometimes the bowl is equipped with the so-called side panel that “collects” generous breasts from the side and gives them more support. Sometimes the bowl also has the so-called whalebone, flexible rod made of metal or plastic. The underwire is longer, the more built-up the bra. The place where the cups connect between the breasts is the breastbone, which is the wider the wider the breast spacing. In a well-chosen bra, it should fit snugly against the chest. If it sticks out, the cups are too small. The stem is also often connected to the cradle to help keep the cup and underwire in the right position. In some models, the cradle is reinforced with an additional, vertical underwire that supports the breast from the side. The cradles are complemented with wings that allow you to fix the bra in the right position on the back, i.e. exactly where the clasp is – with two or three rows of hooks. To maintain the breasts, there are straps with appropriate adjustment, which, depending on the bra model, can be placed closer or wider apart. The place where the shoulder strap meets the cup is called the top. It is set higher in bras with fuller cups. The most important element of the bra structure is the circumference, i.e. the tape around the bust from the bottom.

Breast forward!

Dear ladies – a bra is a magical item! It not only protects the bust, optically enlarges or reduces it, but also corrects the figure by forcing us to straighten and shapes it – with “lifted” breasts, the waist and hips seem thinner and more defined. Unfortunately, the results of research conducted by underwear manufacturers reveal a brutal truth – the vast majority of us do not wear the right size and shape of a bra. And it is not because it either does not know how it should go or because it knows, but it is not able to use this knowledge when trying on. Meanwhile, doctors are alarming – an incorrectly selected bra is not only a cause of discomfort (e.g. it presses on the chest causing pain, hurts the armpits, restricts movement) and aesthetic problems (because what is beautiful in the skin folds peeking out from behind the cradle and wings), but also problems health.

In many cases, these are not serious conditions, but a poorly chosen bra is responsible for headaches and spine aches. For example, if it is too wide or has too small cups, the weight of the bust does not distribute properly, which in turn leads to damage to the thoracic-sacral spine. In turn, too narrow or short shoulder straps not only limit the movement of the shoulder blades, but also knead the trapezoidal muscle, which leads to shoulder and shoulder ailments, neck muscle spasms, numbness in the hands and back pain. An improperly selected bra can also cause abrasions and chafing of the skin – especially under the axillary sinus, where the epidermis is additionally exposed to sweat. However, there are no studies so far that would confirm the thesis put forward 10 years ago by American scientists that the bra causes pressure on the lymphatic system and causes the accumulation of toxins in one place, which are the focus of neoplastic changes.

A well-chosen bra has a positive impact on the condition of the breasts themselves. In women who wear a bra, the skin of the neckline and ligaments supporting the breasts are less stretched, which slows down the bust drooping process to some extent. What’s more, with a well-fitted bra, the phenomenon of the so-called migration, i.e. the movement of adipose tissue from the armpits to the breasts, which has a positive effect on the improvement of their shape and firmness.

For a bra to the store

Step 1 – time reservation

Bra shopping takes more time than other errands, because trying on bras requires more treatments.

Step 2 – Determining the Size

In order to shorten the process of choosing a bra, its size should be determined at home, before shopping. Remember that the breasts react to changes in the body. Not only do they “lose” and “gain”, but also depending on the day of the menstrual cycle, they can be more or less swollen. Determining your bra size even once a year may not be enough. Just in case, let’s check it before buying each bra. To determine the size, you must first measure the circumference. The circumference is the most important element of a bra. 90% of the weight of the breast is based on it and it is he, not the shoulder straps (!), That provides them with proper support and also keeps the bra in the right place. To determine the circumference, let’s measure the tape measure under the breasts as closely as possible and on the exhale! Let’s subtract 5 cm from the result and round it down to the nearest size – e.g. if our circumference is 78 cm, we will get 73 cm after subtraction, and after rounding – 70 cm. Such a circumference ensures that the bra will not be too loose. A properly selected bra should fit tightly around the body (when fastened on the first hook from the edge), but not enough to obstruct breathing or injure the skin.

You also need a cup measurement to determine the size. This time, let’s measure the circumference of the bust at its widest point, i.e. at the height of the nipples. The size of the bust is the difference between the circumference under the breasts and the bust. If it is 10-11 cm – choose cup A, 12-14 cm – cup B, 14-16 cm – C, 16,5 – 19 – D. Remember to always adjust the size of the cup when changing the size of the circumference – these sizes are related to each other. Taking a larger circumference, let’s make the cup smaller, and vice versa – choosing a narrower circumference, let’s enlarge the cup.

Step 3 – fitting

Determining the bra size is just a starting point. We can make the right choice only by checking how it is arranged on the body. How is the bra fitted correctly? First of all – let’s fasten it with the loosest hook and eye (the others are a reserve, if it turns out that the bra has shrunk or stretched) and in a position with the torso slightly tilted forward. Secondly – let’s check if the underwires lie exactly under the breasts and if they are not kneaded anywhere. Thirdly – after fastening the bra, let’s arrange the breasts in the cups, taking them out from under the armpits. Fourth – let’s adjust the length of the straps so that they do not slip off the shoulders, but also do not stick into the skin. Fifth – let’s make a few movements – bends, jumps, twists to check that the clasp does not move or that the breasts do not pop out of the cups.

Step 4 – Assessment

In a well-chosen bra:

– its back is adjacent to the back, and the clasp remains in the same place regardless of movements (if the opposite is the case – measure the bra with a smaller circumference under the bust);

– the breasts are raised and do not touch the belly (if they are hanging down, change the bra to the one with a narrower circumference – shortening the straps will not help);

– the weight of the bust does not rest on the straps;

– the breasts fit into the cups – no folds are formed over the edge of the cup and under the armpit, and the bust line remains smooth;

– underwires surround the breasts, stick to the cage and do not stick into the body – the tip of a well-chosen underwire is in the middle of the armpit, and if it is not, it means that the cup is too small;

– the cups do not wrinkle or fold – if they stand out from the breast, it means that they are too big;

– the circumference of the bra is firm and tight, but does not cause pain.

Brafitters on top

As one of my friends says: “Under the PRL, shopping was easier. You took what was on the shelf, and usually there was not much on it, so you took it quickly and then wondered who it would fit. ” Today, a visit to a lingerie store can make you not dizzy, but a severe migraine. The multitude of materials, styles and colors can overwhelm even a determined woman and make her believe that it is best to buy a bra online or to order it from her husband.

And if she goes for “bra” shopping equipped with myths that, for example, the best model for small breasts is push-up, that large breasts must be stuffed in bras similar to armor, otherwise they will hang, or that size D is a large size or that the cups end with the letter E – the decision to choose a bra is beginning to equal the one taken by Bonaparte deciding whether to attack Our Country or not.

Contrary to Napoleon, however, modern women may benefit from the help of more expert advisers than those who supported the emperor. Brafitting skills, i.e. matching a bra to a woman’s breast and figure, are possessed by brafitters. Until a few years ago, they shared their knowledge only on internet portals. Today they can be found in many lingerie stores. It is them who, skillfully juggling between different sizes and models, can choose a bra in such a way that we accept our bust, appreciate it and enjoy it.

Bra cheat sheet

Types of bras:

Balconette – with or without removable shoulder straps. The cups are shaped and stiffened to reveal and expose the upper part of the bust.

Push-up (lifting) – thanks to the material or silicone insert hidden in the lower part of the cup, this bra optically enlarges the breasts and lifts them upwards. The model most often chosen by ladies with small or less firm breasts.

Semi-padded – the lower part of the cup is stiffened, and the upper part is made of mesh or lace. The cup is half sewn with a horizontal seam.

Padded – the whole cup is stiffened with a delicate, properly shaped foam.

Soft – the cups are made of a material that easily adjusts to the shape of the breasts. Underwires are placed in the lower part of the cups to support both breasts.

Seamless (thermally formed – T-shirt bra) – the cups (without seams) are made of a soft, thin, contoured sponge covered with fabric or of the fabric itself formed into the anatomical shape of the breast. This type of bra is often worn under tight-fitting clothing or cotton shirts.

Cup shapes:

Balconette – the cup consists of three parts, which rounds the breasts and raises them. Perfect for blouses with round or square neckline.

Plunge – a bra with cups with a slanting seam and a low bridge that brings both hemispheres of the breast closer to each other, thus forming the so-called the effect of a valley, i.e. a groove. Especially willingly worn with deep necklines.

Half-cup – a bra with vertical seams on the cups. It only reaches the middle of the breasts, which makes them look like impressive hemispheres.

Full-cup – a high-rise bra (covering the entire breast), with a horizontal seam, usually soft and underwired.

Strapless – a bra with a special structure supporting the breasts from the bottom. The edges of the cups are usually finished with a silicone strip that prevents the breast from slipping and falling out.

Bandeau – a wide band without straps, only on the breasts, sometimes wrinkled to optically emphasize the bust.

Sporty – soft, usually without underwires and sponges, slightly similar to a top, its task is to hold the breasts firmly to the chest.

Bra test

Before we buy a bra, let’s answer six questions:

1. Is the circumference of the bra tight and perpendicular to the spine, so does the clasp not go up?

2. Does the cup cover the entire breast?

3. Do the underwires stick in the body under the armpit?

4. Is the bra bridge close to our breastbone?

5. Does the top and bottom rim of the cup cover the entire bust?

6. Are the shoulder straps tight but do not stick to the body?

If we answered “yes” to all the questions, it means that we have chosen a bra in the right size.

Text: Magdalena Gajda

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