Contents
- Progress in cosmetics
- 5 major discoveries in the cosmetics industry
- Tools that include innovative components
- Highly effective antioxidant serum for dry and normal skin C E Ferulic, SkinCeuticals
- Cream Revitalift Laser x3, L’Oréal Paris
- Lotion to reduce and prevent skin imperfections Breakout Control Blemish Treatment Facial Lotion, Kiehl’s
- Anti-wrinkle and firming cream for dry skin LiftActiv Supreme, Vichy
- Nutrix Royal Intensive Revitalizing Cream, Lancôme
It’s great that progress does not stand still and scientists are discovering new molecules and formulas to solve skin problems. Otherwise, we would still use olive oil instead of cream, and we could not even imagine that wrinkles and age spots can be corrected.
Progress in cosmetics
The effect of beauty products has become predictable. There is a clear idea of what and how this or that substance affects.
There has been a real revolution in the field of technologies for processing natural plant materials. Learned how to get the most out of it.
More and more active ingredients are obtained by chemical synthesis or through biotechnology. Synthetic analogues are often superior to natural substances in efficiency and can point to certain processes in the body.
Cosmetics become multifunctional: moisturize, nourish, smooth wrinkles, protect the skin.
But this is the general picture. Let’s figure out what the discoveries themselves are, or at least the most important of them.
The effect of beauty products has become predictable. There is a clear idea on which layer of the skin and how this or that substance affects.
5 major discoveries in the cosmetics industry
1. Antioxidants
The inclusion of antioxidants in cosmetics is a response to the theory of free radicals, put forward in 1954. According to it, unstable molecules penetrate into the body or are formed as a result of external influences, which lack one or two electrons. Striving for stability, they take the missing electrons from normal molecules, turning them in turn into unstable ones. This triggers a chain of oxidative reactions that damage cells at the genetic level.
Photoaging of the skin is also the result of the action of free radicals formed under the influence of ultraviolet radiation.
They provoke the gradual death of Langerhans cells that control the processes of restoration in the epidermis and the protection of the dermis, including the collagen framework.
The skin loses strength and elasticity.
The Malpighian layer (the second layer of the epidermis, due to cell division of which its regeneration occurs) becomes thinner, and the horny thickens. Hyperkeratosis develops, manifested in dryness and peeling.
Antioxidants are used in almost all groups of cosmetics. The most effective are: vitamins A, C, E, B3, resveratrol, green tea extract, alpha-lipoic acid, lycopene and other carotenes, superoxide dismutase.
2. Alpha hydroxy acids
Fruit acids have been used to disinfect wounds since the First World War. At the same time, doctors noticed a side effect of such procedures: the skin became more elastic and smooth. However, cosmetics with AHA appeared only in the late 1980s. And now many experts believe that the revolution made by fruit acids in cosmetology was truly revolutionary.
AHA acids improve all processes of skin functioning without exception.
They have a moisturizing effect.
Stimulates the production of collagen and elastin.
Improve skin turgor.
They have a lifting effect, correct wrinkles and age spots, smooth out scars.
Most often, salicylic, glycolic, ascorbic, ferulic, alpha-lipoic acids are used in cosmetics.
Most often, glycolic, ferulic, lactic, mandelic, and tartaric acids are used in cosmetics.
The adjusted concentration of acid provides the product with a pH balance that allows you to avoid negative skin reactions: irritation, peeling, redness.
3. Hyaluronic acid
The best natural moisturizer is the name of hyaluronic acid. It is produced by the human body itself. And one of its molecules is able to hold up to 1000 water molecules. Just as important, it is the first widely used biotechnological ingredient produced by specific bacteria.
The use of hyaluronic acid has been further developed. Scientists have learned how to crush a bulky molecule, obtaining the so-called low molecular weight forms that are able to overcome the epidermal barrier and penetrate deeper into the skin, triggering the production of its own hyaluronic acid, increasing skin hydration and enhancing protective functions.
4. Peptide technologies
Cells “communicate” with each other using signal molecules, and peptides (a chain of several amino acids) are one of them. The appearance of peptides opened a new era in cosmetics – bioregulation. Having studied the peptide “language”, you can give commands to cells, directing biological processes in the right direction.
Cosmetics become multifunctional: moisturize, nourish, smooth wrinkles, protect the skin.
Today, many peptide complexes are used in cosmetics.
Hexapeptides, which include argireline, block neuromuscular signal transmission, smoothing wrinkles.
Matrixyl stimulates fibroblasts to produce collagen and elastin.
Dipeptide-2 instructs the lymphatic system to work better, eliminating bags and swelling under the eyes.
Copper-containing peptides are used in anti-pigmentation products and in restorative creams (after aggressive cosmetic procedures).
Peptides are quite easy to obtain by synthesis (of course, in a laboratory), they easily overcome the epidermal barrier and remain stable in the formula.
6. Encapsulation technologies
The topic of effective delivery of active substances deep into the skin has been discussed since the late 1970s. It is known that small molecules have some penetrating power, but still remain fairly close to the surface. And to combat the aging process, you need to act on the layer of cells between the epidermis and the dermis.
Encapsulation technologies are now being used to deliver substances deep into the skin. The active substance is enclosed in a special capsule that can “deceive” the cells of the protective layer and overcome the epidermal barrier.
These conductors include:
enhancers;
liposomes (nanosomes);
lipid nanoparticles;
cyclodextrins;
micro sponges.
First of all, very active and extremely unstable antioxidants (vitamins A, E, C, polyphenols, carotenoids) require delivery. As well as substances that irritate the skin in high concentrations (salicylic acid, vitamin C).
Tools that include innovative components
Highly effective antioxidant serum for dry and normal skin C E Ferulic, SkinCeuticals
Antioxidants (high concentrations of L-ascorbic acid, alpha-tocopherol, ferulic acid) strengthen the defense system, stimulate collagen production, and make the skin noticeably firmer and younger.
Cream Revitalift Laser x3, L’Oréal Paris
Proxylan in combination with lipo-hydroxy- and hyaluronic acids renews the skin, evens out the relief, makes it smooth, and the oval of the face is noticeably clearer.
Lotion to reduce and prevent skin imperfections Breakout Control Blemish Treatment Facial Lotion, Kiehl’s
The composition contains salicylic acid, which contributes to the narrowing of pores, and vitamin B3. The tool significantly improves the appearance of the skin.
Anti-wrinkle and firming cream for dry skin LiftActiv Supreme, Vichy
Included in the formula, adenosine reduces mimic wrinkles. Rhamnose and neohesperidin enhance collagen production, strengthen the skin’s own defenses.
Nutrix Royal Intensive Revitalizing Cream, Lancôme
The effectiveness of the product is associated with the action of active substances: natural oils, hazelnut extract, provitamin C, royal jelly. Nourishes, moisturizes, improves metabolic processes in cells.