17 important questions to a trichologist about hair

How to choose a shampoo, why hair becomes thin and brittle, is it possible to stop hair loss, said the chief physician of the Institute of Beautiful Hair, President of the NP Professional Society of Trichologists, dermatologist, cosmetologist, Doctor of Medical Sciences Aida Gadzhigoroeva.

1. Is it true that the most useful combs are wooden ones? Which is better: combs or brushes? How often should they be changed?

If you like ecological style, you can use wooden combs and brushes, but they very quickly absorb sebum, get dirty and do not comb your hair well. They need to be washed frequently with soap or shampoo.

For combing hair, nothing is better than a comb with long teeth. If there is soreness on the skin or when moving hair from one side to the other, it is better to use a massage brush with metal teeth and plastic balls at the ends of the teeth, they will protect the skin from damage.

If the brush does not break, the balls do not fall off, this comb can be used for at least ten years, do not forget to wash it with brushes, remove dirt at the base of the teeth. The main thing is that it is clean and safe.

2. Some say that you need to brush through your hair 100 times, others, on the contrary, advise you to comb as rarely as possible so as not to damage or pull out the hair again. Whom to believe?

Remember the historical films, which show how empresses or maidservants are being combed before going to bed. This ritual has been developed for centuries for a reason. When combing, the work of the sebaceous glands of the head improves, sebum is distributed along the entire length of the hair, moisturizes and protects them from bacteria, microdamages, and environmental influences. It is advisable to comb twice a day, making 30-40 vigorous movements from the scalp to the ends of the hair.

3. Earlier, folk remedies like nettle were considered the most effective. Are they better than store-bought cosmetics?

In folk remedies there is a grain of reason. Nettle really improves sebum production, reduces the appearance of dandruff. But are you ready in our time to engage in the preparation of broths?

Nettle (and you need to find exactly dioecious, and not the usual stinging one) must be collected, dried, made an extract, when if you really want to use this particular plant, you can buy a ready-made extract or infusion. Our grandparents, from whom we inherited folk recipes, lived in completely different conditions, they did not have such a polluted atmosphere, wrong food, hours of office work.

We live in a high-tech age, in which there is a beauty industry, cosmetic and medical products have been created that can solve problems in a targeted manner. Professional products are designed for the current condition of our hair.

4. On one site I read that the best hair mask is different natural oils: linseed, coconut, olive. Should you use them?

Oils have a different composition of fats. For example, the thickest lanolin oil is definitely not suitable for hair, since it cannot be washed off later. If you want, you can experiment. All reputable hair brands such as L’Oreal, Wella, Syoss have dry hair oils.

These are really very good products that do not weigh down the hair and make it silky. There are whole lines where there is oil in the composition of shampoos, masks, sprays. For example, the Olioseta Oro del Marocco line with Moroccan argan oil or the Italian brand Eliocap TopLevel.

5. The horsepower shampoo is advertised on TV. Is it really for horses and can make hair look thick?

This is just a brilliant publicity stunt. When they say “Horsepower,” everyone imagines a mane and a luxurious ponytail. Of course, this is not a horse shampoo. What is good for animals can be destructive for humans. We are more gentle creatures. This shampoo does contain many enveloping ingredients, which give the hair a smoother glide feeling when combing and a thickening effect.

6. How do you know if the shampoo is good?

A friend may like the same shampoo, but absolutely not suit you. This does not mean that the shampoo is bad. There are no universal good shampoos. The choice of detergent should take into account many factors: hair type (dry, normal, oily), colored, gray, hard or not. Someone needs medicinal shampoos to help with psoriasis, atypical dermatitis, mycosis. Ask your hairdresser for advice. As for pearl powder, quality Japanese or Korean beauty products sometimes contain pearl, which really adds shine.

7. The ends of the hair are split. They say they are somehow glued together. What can help?

Spread with either silicone or office glue, it is impossible to glue the split ends, since the change occurs at the molecular level. The split end is only what we see, and the structure of the hair is broken far above. Therefore, the first thing to do is to cut your hair at a height of at least 10 centimeters from the edge where the cut takes place.

Stop dyeing your hair, use hair dryers, curling irons, and irons. Apply moisturizing care. Recovery will take a long time, at least a year. Be sure to take vitamin complexes with amino acids containing sulfur: cysteine ​​and methionine. They are the main building blocks of keratins, the proteins that make up hair and nails.

8. After the birth of the baby, the scalp became dry, as if tightened. I tried anti-dandruff shampoos, they didn’t help. What do you advise?

If there is no dandruff, then there is no need to use an anti-dandruff shampoo. A feeling of tightness can be caused by a decrease in skin moisture. Visit a professional hairdresser for a recommendation of moisturizing shampoos and moisturizing masks. Typically, shampoos for colored hair contain ingredients with this effect. You can use masks with jojoba oil. If this does not help or you have headaches, then you need to consult a trichologist.

A feeling of tightness may appear due to a constant spasm of the aponeurosis muscles (this is a tendon plate attached to the bones by muscles), then drug treatment is necessary, for example, injections of botulinum toxin into the zone of attachment of the aponeurosis (forehead and back of the head). Good treatments are mesotherapy with hyaluronic acid. These procedures relieve spasms, improve microcirculation and hair growth. The feeling of tightness disappears for a long time or forever.

9. A 10-year-old girl has very oily hair, even though it’s mine every day. They buy her shampoos for dry hair. What else to do?

The granddaughter enters the initial period of puberty, therefore, increased sebum secretion, the appearance of acne, dandruff, and the smell of sweat is normal. It is necessary to change the attitude towards regular hygienic care. If mothers usually wash their children’s hair once a week, then a teenager may need it much more often.

Even every day, if the beauty of the hair requires it. The main thing is not to overdo it and use the right shampoos. Detergents for dry hair offer a mild degreasing effect, enveloping the hair with special ingredients that will keep moisture in the hair shaft. If the hair is oily, it will worsen the condition. Try shampoos for normal hair. And in matters of hygiene, treat your granddaughter like a girl.

10. The scalp is very itchy and itchy. I use Freederm pH-balance, it doesn’t help. What to do?

Friderm is recommended for removing dandruff residues, which you do not need. Ask the pharmacy for indifferent shampoos. They have a neutral pH, non-aggressive surfactants (surfactants), so they gently remove dirt from the scalp. For example, you can buy Vichy Mineral Doux, Elution. Use a moisturizing mask. Try not to wash your hair often to avoid removing the protective sebum. And contact your therapist to prescribe the necessary tests for you. Itchy skin can be caused by serious changes in the body: an increase in bilirubin (one of the main components of bile), blood sugar, taking certain medications.

11. The young woman’s hair has become brittle, thin, oily and falling out. What do you recommend?

It is important to know that all shampoos, without exception, affect only the hair itself, but not the hair follicles from which it grows. When there is a change in diameter, hair structure and loss, then the problem is at the follicle level. Normally, hair develops cyclically, alternately entering one of three phases: active growth, preparation for the transition to the next stage, loss and rest, followed by growth again.

Baldness occurs when the follicle is “at rest” for a long time and does not start growing. To restore hair growth, you need to wake up dormant follicles, which are located at a depth of 0,3-0,5 cm from the surface of the skin. No shampoo can get there. Your daughter needs to see a trichologist, he should interview your daughter in detail. Probably, the doctor will prescribe a clinical laboratory study, examine the condition of hair growth and, based on the examination, make a diagnosis and prescribe treatment.

12. Why does hair fall out?

There can be many reasons. One of the main ones is the genetic sensitivity of follicles to androgens (male hormones). It can manifest itself in both girls and boys after reaching puberty. Under the influence of androgens, the hair on the crown, at the edge of the forehead and temples is shortened, thinned, thinned, and then ceases to grow back. The second common reason is disruption of the endocrine organs.

If, in addition to hair loss, there are irregular, scanty or painful periods, tearfulness, irritability, a sharp increase in weight or, conversely, weight loss, then you should contact an endocrinologist. Lack of protein in the diet, which is often found in diets, also harms the hair. A typical female problem: hair loss 3-4 months after childbirth.

This is a natural physiological process, and in a healthy woman, after some time, all hair is restored. Age-related changes in hair and skin usually begin after 35 years. Baldness in menopause (called senile alopecia) is also caused by diseases that come with age, and by some drugs necessary for age-related diseases: hypertension, coronary heart disease, hormonal imbalance, inflammation of the joints.

13. Is there a remedy for hair loss?

At the age of 54, a woman is usually before or already in menopause, when a powerful negative change in the condition of the skin and hair occurs. Hair falls off quickly, grows less, some of it may not grow back at all. Go for a consultation with a gynecologist so that your hormonal background can be adjusted, taking into account age characteristics. In the absence of contraindications, the doctor will prescribe hormone replacement therapy.

Since hair grows old along with the whole body, then they also require more careful care than at a young age. And that’s okay. There are effective remedies for baldness. Lotions or sprays based on minoxidil, such as Generolon, Regaine, improve hair growth and density. Depending on the concentration, they are applied to the scalp once or twice a day. But they must be applied constantly, until the end of life. Visit a dermatologist to determine the indications for long-term use of these products.

14. What is the best method to combat hair loss?

There can be no unique method. First, a trichologist must diagnose the disease, only then he will prescribe the appropriate treatment. In some cases, mesotherapy is suitable, cocktails of nutritional components perfectly stimulate hair growth.

For others – plasma therapy – injections of autoplasma, rich in platelets, alpha-granules of which contain a large number of growth factors. They spur the body’s own resources. And with severe baldness in women or men, hair transplantation is indicated.

15. What to do if you turn gray early? Are there ways to get your hair back to its natural color?

Long-term intake of vitamin B5 and para-aminobenzoic acid delay the appearance of gray hair, cause their noticeable darkening. But once you stop taking these drugs, your hair will gradually return to its original color. If you don’t want to dye your hair, use a shampoo for gray hair.

It moisturizes, makes hair more pliable for styling and, as a rule, contains special mild dyes. The gray hair is yellowish in color and looks unkempt. The shampoo slightly tints and gives gray hair a well-groomed look.

16. Is the sun good or bad for hair?

Ultraviolet light has a negative effect on hair, primarily on hair prone to baldness. It speeds up the processes of loss. The main misconception is that regular headgear protects hair from the sun. Ultraviolet rays pass quietly through fabrics.

Therefore, for protection, you need to use hair gels with SP-factor or buy caps, panamas made of fabrics impregnated with SP-filters, or woven from fibers with UV protection. For example, hemp possesses such properties, and manufacturers paint the hemp icon on things with it.

17. I saw an advertisement for a clinic where they say by the hair what you are sick with. It can be done? In crime series, they show how to establish, for example, whether a person has used drugs.

Forensic experts can really clarify some of the nuances of a person’s life by hair. For example, according to the sulfur content in hair, you can determine who this hair belongs to – a man or a woman, whether this person was poisoned with some kind of poison, for example, arsenic or salts of heavy metals – lithium, strontium … But diseases of the body cannot be seen from the hair. It is realistic to diagnose diseases of the hair itself, since hair changes can have a specific character: nodules, a spindle-shaped shaft.

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